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I was also thinking that the two part system, at least the primer phase, would be better for refinishing of an old fiberglass (gelcoated) top to stabilize the surface. Am I being paranoid?

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The Brightside paint and a removable fiberglass convertible top are a natural match - since the Brightside was designed for use on boats

I would sand that top with a 600 grit... and just get it as smooth and dull as possible ( to provide a good surface for the paint to anchor itself on.

As for doing wet sanding on Brightside paint. You must remember that the final shine requirements for a car compared to a boat are different. For the car... we want the maximum shine. In order to get the maximum shine you have to wetsand things as you go along and with the final coat in order to maximize the smoothness of the surface. The smoother the surface... the more gloss and reflection it will have.

As for the durability.. I do not think you are going to encounter any difference in how you would handle a Brightside rolled top... as compared to one that had been sprayed with automotive paint. Either way you will be exercising caution when removing or storing the top.

Further on the durability... just remember that it is a 'boat paint'... and as such it is designed to take all the typical abuses ( both physical and enviromental ) that a boat would be subject to.

I would stick with the one stage Brightside paint ( as compared to the two stage version ), simply because it is more forgiving of mistakes during the rolling process.

But if you follow the suggestions posted regarding the rolling process, you should not encounter glaring brush streaks etc.

In fact... you probably have one of the most ideal projects for doing a 'roll you own'. It is small and relatively flat surface. You can probably lay 20 coats of ultra-thinned paint on to that puppy and still have it all finished in two or three weeks ( and that is including all the time spent doing wetsanding etc ).

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