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05/16/22 10:15 PM
No that was not what launched me it was what the mods did to my post
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05/16/22 10:10 PM
Looking for tail light lenses for a 1966 Valiant Station Wagon P/N 2585048-049 if happen to be NOS or used be in very good condition.
These tail light lenses or even complete tail light assemblies are a one year 1966 only.
Let me know what you have and Thanks for looking and the ad...Bill
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05/16/22 10:03 PM
i keep forgetting to ask Rhino, where will you store all your broken transmissions now ?  just kidding ! best of luck to you Jim !   I actually sold most of transmissions, broke or unbroke, still have a few more left!  I will still do transports, and still have lots of parts to get rid of over the next six month. Towards the end you will see ads for lots of free Mopar parts! 
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05/16/22 10:02 PM
The Chute may be coming next. Its has touched 150 mph on a couple of passes. Best ET was 9.005. But in better air with a little tail wind. It uses one XS 16 volt battery. Previously it had 2 Optima's. The single 16 volt works much better. We'll be out again Memorial weekend. Bigger jets, looser front shocks.
Doug You gonna be at 131? That will be my first time out..new heads and intake
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05/16/22 10:00 PM
I don't worry about getting audited, I am a small fish and it would cost the taxpayers more to go after me than it is worth. If they want to take everything I own then good luck to you. Just ask 20% more than your stuff is worth, that will pay the tax or your item won't sell, no skin off my back... 
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05/16/22 09:59 PM
Im really at my wits end with this guy who just bought my hemi car.
I decided after 35 years to part with my baby. It was older restoration but still looked great. He bought the car sight unseen. Gave him plenty of pictures and I gave him the most accurate description as possible.
He just received the car and he was easy to deal with at 1st when he gave me a deposit.
After deposit and many phone calls, he started getting a little intense and became a real PITA.
He just received the car and now is picking it apart wanting me to give him money back. I signed the bill of sale but they took the car without signing it.
What's your thoughts on this matter?
In looking at some of the used car sales most everything pertains to an actual dealer. There was one statement that stood out on private sales is that as long as the seller acted in good faith you shouldn’t have a problem. Of course if the buyer pursues it in court then no telling the outcome. Sounds like you’ve done your part in acting in good faith.
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05/16/22 09:51 PM
If this was in the unmoderated area I would say a few things I can't say here, but yes, I doubt it was shot...
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05/16/22 09:47 PM
I know, there's a million things...
It's a pretty basic 9:1, iron headed 440 with a mild cam. The distributor is a brand new Summit one. I replaced it because I thought the timing was jumping around at idle, but it was just my dial-back timing light making it look that way. It made no difference to the idle
I could try idling it down a little and see if that helps, but it seems like the type of problem that shouldn't happen whether its idling at 900 or 700 (but who knows). Maybe too much transfer slot exposed?
I guess just adjusting the idle down a little is easy enough to try.
Thanks for the help.
Greg
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05/16/22 09:42 PM
I'm a believer in the Dana60; mine was bulletproof with 640HP on slicks, low-10s, SB Duster.
Strange axles. Originally set up by Herb McCandless, went hundreds of passes before I did a precautionary R&P.
In a heavier drag car car I'd consider a Dana60 mandatory, and have done exactly that.
I've seen enough broken rears spit a car into the wall; makes for a crappy day, to say the least.
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05/16/22 09:38 PM
Where do you come by the notion that members are boycotting the board? "Visiting daily" and "boycotting" seem to be at odds. Are you saying they only view the posts but don't participate (lurk)? When browsing older posts, you come across members who haven't posted in quite awhile (years). If you look at the profile you can see when they were last on the site but when compared to their last post, it's quite a span. Furthermore, when their last few posts state they are boycotting the site, it doesn't leave much to wonder. Not boycotting but still lurk. Still have friends on here. It’s just not my go to site anymore. The pop up BS is the main reason. ditto. The FXBO sites have much better software, make it much easier to be a part of the community. While I changed my name and resigned up once, I was 'wayne_township' on here all the way back when the Dallas Mopar Board existed as the main competition, until it's owner stopped upgrading and javascript hackers made it a mess almost daily. Tom has posted several times on here about his stance - it's his product he can do what he wants. It's producing enough revenue as it is. I do come on here but mostly to look at the classifieds as a buyer. IMO Joey has a better product with much better software and better terms of service. And Joey also wants money to be a "gold member", he can't touch my gold member! Tom is a Mopar guy, Joey is a Lincoln vs Cadillac guy who found out he could make money on Mopar people. I do like the software better, hovering over a topic to see if it is of interest instead of having to open it save lots of time, but there are so many topics to chose from it get cumbersome and you miss a lot of things you might want to check out...
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05/16/22 09:38 PM
Looks like it'll be pretty stiff for a stock floor pan style car. It'll be nice to see it back out.
Doug
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05/16/22 09:31 PM
(sway bars, power rack/pinion, Mustang II spindles, ect) So order it without the sway bar and power rack and install a manual rack - how hard can that be !! And as far as the Mustang II spindles, they are only that in name - bearing very little resemblance to an actual Mustang II spindle !! This is part of the problem, I already have Strange alum hubs, calipers and brackets, rotors & my wheels. Don't want to add these parts to the cost of it also. Brian
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05/16/22 09:27 PM
I just ordered the whole kit from Bergman Auto Craft. Small sector kit with the hybrid coupler and hose adapters.
I am quite anxious to drive the car with a tight steering box.
I used to have a '76 Camaro with some upgrades....
That car had the bigger sway bars from a Trans Am, HD coil springs and an IROC 12.7 to 1 steering box. Say what you want about GM products but that car flat out handled great. The steering response was fantastic. I was really hoping to make the Charger equal to or better than the Camaro but I've always been disappointed by the Firm Feel steering box. This is no fault on the company. They surely did the best that they could with this design.
For contrast.....
My '67 Dart has the stock power steering which as you know, is almost effortless. It works perfectly for street use and the off road trails I drive it on. I wouldn't change anything about it. Turning on dirt can feel like turning on ice or mud so an easy effort steering gear is just fine.
For the Charger, the higher effort magnified the feeling of the slop. This has been an eye opener for me. I thought the higher effort would be great. If there were no steering box options, I'd consider switching back to a milder Stage 2 box with stock Idler and Pitman arms to mask some of the slop.
I have a 72 Duster, the aforementioned 67 Dart and another 70 Charger, all with power steering. The "Jigsaw" Charger has Fast Ratio arms. All are factory original steering boxes, none leak so they are staying in place. All feel pretty good on the road.
What power steering pump do you have. I was told by Lee Power Steering that not addressing a matched pump is often the cause of the noises and issue people have. The Saginaw's are better than the TRW/Eaton round cans. Getting the pressure and flow dialed in is important. Don't shorten the pump lines. Ever notice some factory power steering pump lines seem unnecessarily long? It IS necessary so the rubber line has more time to dampen the harmonics from the pump into the steering gear. Sometimes you'll see a odd joint in the middle of a pressure line and it goes from one size hose to another. Seems stupid because it's another place for a leak.... Well, that's to damping the harmonics also. ![[Linked Image]](https://www.physicsclassroom.com/mmedia/waves/ltm.gif)
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05/16/22 09:13 PM
It also would have the latch slide on the upper portion of seat sides while the 69 and earlier would have the latch on the bottom rear...
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05/16/22 08:58 PM
have a really nice set in black but are for power windows you can call if your interested
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05/16/22 08:31 PM
I'd put the cam in earlier unless you're tire limited. I'd guess about 870-880 hp
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05/16/22 08:24 PM
I believe you tend to get into lifter galley bleed issues somewhere over around .380-.390 lobe lift.... generally. I would check with Howards and see if they have any issues reported from customers. (Howards Grinds the TF cams IIRC)
I run a Bullet Hydraulic roller in my 517 and I think the lift at the lobe is .380I-.373E and I have no issues at all with the Crane Lifters and I've turned it 6800-7000 many times. I run 264/268 @.050 and with Big mopar wedges the power you feel on the street is really in the mid lifts. Remember a cam spends most of it's open duration between at least 1/3 lift and 2/3 of peak lift.
If you are really worried about it I would send it back to Howards and have it reground to the 235/240 @ .050 and somewhere around .370 lift, it might cost you 10-15 peak hp and the Peak torque rpm will come in a few hundred RPM sooner, but in a Stroker Mopar I doubt you'll miss it.
If that sounds like a broomstick, I know 110% there's someone here that runs High 10's in a street driven B body with that same grind.
my .02
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05/16/22 08:23 PM
[quote=topside] If you poke around like an idiot, you can find a way to screw anything up.
 Truer words have never been spoken. Ask me how I know... 
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05/16/22 07:30 PM
Going on 73, Medicare is right around $200 and plan F supplement is $180 drugs is $7. All out of Social Security each month. IF you have major health issues get the Plan F supplement, they pay ALL nothing out of your pocket. If healthy get the one with no payments but the copay. But you’re screwed if something catastrophic shows it self. I had no health problems before 65 after upwards of $600,000 worth of problems, glad I had total payment and piece of mind. I had BCBS first 4 years $$ now CVS-Aetna for half their price. Check around for prices for same sup plan. Medicare pays most all the bill supplement catches what’s left (ripoff), but that’s what cleans you bank out. Luckily I found an independent agent to go over ALL the companies plans not just one.
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05/16/22 07:12 PM
If someone makes an exact copy of an old painting, using the exact materials that the original artist used - do you consider it as a fake or a reproduction?
In the art world its called a forgery.
Owning a forgery, on the other hand is unfortunate. Forgeries are defined as works deliberately made to resemble style, technique and manner of certain painter, in order to deceive prospective buyers. They are made to trick, and as such
For the two above, it’s not a painting, it’s a piece of steel stamped with the SAME factory dies. If you think you could tell the difference I call BS. As far as why it’s being made, lost, stolen, rusted away or to shut people up on why it doesn’t have one. As long as the car has documentation it’s legit. This guy WON’T make one unless you got the paperwork.
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05/16/22 06:42 PM
In the comments he gives a dodgy answer about the trans numbers. If you’ve got a hemi cuda, you can figure out how to check if it’s got the numbers trans or not. C’mon.
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05/16/22 06:16 PM
Be sure to get a reserve wherever you list. I talked to a guy about a 69 rr that went on BaT. He was told the estimate was over 50k, and they really wanted him to go no reserve. Maybe even got a fee cut. Car only brought in the 30s.
Always a lot of smoke and mirrors with a live auction, so I’d want one there as well.
These days I’d try the free or low insert fee route before I committed to selling with a third party that will want a big cut. You’ve got places like mopar sites, cl, YouTube, faceybooky, cars on line, and more.
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05/16/22 05:45 PM
A lot of good suggestions in above replys.. I would add one seldom mentioned tip: Try to find someone near you that has a Mazda Millenia S with its factory installed double superchargers V6 that runs on the “Miller Cycle” and see if they would let you drive it, or do a ride along, etc. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mazda_Milleniahttps://www.carthrottle.com/post/mazda-once-made-a-225l-v6-and-its-spectacularly-complex/https://www.newcartestdrive.com/reviews/2000-mazda-millenia/If you are looking for a boost in fuel economy AND power understanding the Miller Cycle is a good way to learn how. The Miller Cycle can run on one or two turbos, not just with double superchargers like the Millenia S. Double superchargers are easier to program an engine computer for, as their output depends on rpm, and not the volume and temperature of exhaust gas varying second by second. sample quote This car really comes into its own when its Miller-cycle V6 is put to work. Mazda’s unique Miller-cycle engine was named one the world’s “10 Best Engines” by Ward’s, an automotive trade journal for the past four years. It uses a Lysholm compressor — a scroll-type supercharger — to boost intake pressure along with late intake-valve closing to produce an impressive amount of power without sacrificing fuel efficiency. This system allows this 2.3-liter engine to perform like a 3.3-liter engine, while still retaining the 2.3-liter engine’s economy of operation. The result is a vigorous 210-horsepower with the brawny, quick response of 210 foot-pounds of torque. The Miller-cycle package has no downside. end quote Maybe the original poster should mill a set of magnum heads down about .030, redrill the intake bolt holes to LA pattern, do a 3 angle valve job with nice sharp angles on the intake and polish the ex valve and use a thin steel head gasket to increase compression, air flow, valve lift, swirl, quench... all in one and all that would increase MPG TQ and HP with no turbo lag. It would not gain as much power as a turbo could but I would think 40-50 HP would not be out of the question and give a couple MPG improvement without all the hoses and piping (places for leaks) running all over under the hood making stuff hard to work on. On a side note I been thinking about miller cycle engines and wondering how it could be done on a mopar and don't think it would be too hard, just build really high compression, get a wide LSA cam and retard the heck out of it to keep it from building so much cylinder pressure. You would get reduced overlap for a cleaner faster burn and increased expansion ratio as well as letting the combustion exert it's force on the piston till the last possible degree of rotation. The other option would be Atkins cycle but I think that would be harder to effectively build in a mopar engine with a readily available cam.
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05/16/22 05:19 PM
You can even be cool driving in a funeral procession...
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05/16/22 05:15 PM
Big "depends" here on the temp. A bb Mopar has siamese exh ports so it needs good cooling in that area, especially with nitrous.
You have a Megablock, shouldnt move around too much hot to cold, IF the carb works well, you should stage at 100* . That would require towing up . Like i said, the carb must be tuned for this temp so dont go try it and say it didnt work...LOL
Like i said this is for a decent amount of nitrous use on a BB mopar....i dont want to argue it, just saying what i have been instructed to do by a very reputable builder and what has worked for me. I have a Dale Cubic carb and it goes on the brake no problem, usually stage at 90 to 110*
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