07/27/24 12:07 AM
"Gee, why sales so slow ?"
Not to mention a joke or two about the china walls...
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07/26/24 11:11 PM
Not sure this will help.
I had an 86 Daytona that would shut everything down electrical, but the engine, occasionally. I about tore my hair out trying to figure it out and it wasn't until a bud needed a jump and neither of us had jumper cables. So I hot swapped my charged battery for his drained battery.
That fixed my problem, so I bought a new battery.
Only thing I could figure was that the original battery had some sort of intermittent fault.
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07/26/24 11:07 PM
Everyone says they want a station wagon.
No one really wants to buy one, though. Exactly. Here's one way to put it in perspective. The final year I was married, I had to move my wagon ('73 for those who don't remember) out of the garage and park it in the driveway. This was also shortly after I bought my ratty '93 Dakota. In the 9 months the wagon sat outside (and overall condition looked MUCH better than the Dakota) I had several people stop and ask about the Dakota, but not one regarding the wagon. Since then, I've even found a note on my Dak asking if I wanted to sell. When I sold it last year, I didn't have the time (or desire) to wait for the 'right' buyer. Time and time again I got the comment ' if only it wasn't a '73' or ' too bad it's not a '71 or '72'. I had a lot of extra parts, crash parts if you will as I had initially planned to build it to daily/travel in (but life kept getting in the way). It came down to first person to offer cash. On one hand, I got less than I wanted (in light of all the extra parts) but I got more than scrap value. ![frowwn frowwn](/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/custom/frowwn.gif) Annoyingly, I think the person bought it just for the engines (440 and 400) and the 8 3/4 axles as not too long after selling it, parts from my stash and my wagon started showing up on FB. If the ads are to be believed, the person sold the extra set of fenders I had for slightly more than half of what he paid me for everything (when I tried to sell them off, I got zero offers). Sorry for the ramble, I guess what I'm trying to say is that unless the '74 is big block and extra minty, you'll have an easier time selling the '72. To use one to fix the other, too much is different. The '72 would be easier to buy chassis parts for but to the best of my knowledge no one makes any sheet metal for either one and good luck finding weather stripping.
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07/26/24 10:32 PM
70 lights are bigger than the 69 stuff. Unless you want to do paint work there's not much you can do to get them to fit.
I've kicked around the idea of using 70s 80s markers to get a socket onto the backside of the 69 housings. Cut a hole in the housing behind the reflector and use a cut up late model housing to hold the bulb. The mounting studs on the 69 housing can be used to attach the late model socket.
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07/26/24 10:32 PM
thanks for taking time to take pictures no one..................
I prefer to see pics of the cars most don't take pics , everyone takes pics of a-12's and hemi cudas
Neat truck
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07/26/24 09:46 PM
For what year, model and option package?
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07/26/24 09:45 PM
it was at Street Outlaws at joilet a few years back
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07/26/24 09:43 PM
I asked a SPECIFIC question. Do A12 cars come with GE or Westinghouse headlights. I KNOW every car with 4 head lights can come with either. If someone is restoring an A12 car, I want to offer my DATE CODED head lights to them.WINGNUT is that for a lot of money?
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07/26/24 09:39 PM
What brand "green" bearing are you buying that don't have the outer snap ring, travel limiting O rings? I've never had to remove anything from any of the rear ends, 8 3/4 or Dana 60 that I converted to the green axles bearings
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07/26/24 09:11 PM
Likely plenty of how to videos on youtube.
I replaced a battery in a S7 samsung, watched how to do it on YT.
Biggest issue with many of the repairs is if the waterproof capability is still intact, if applicable.
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07/26/24 09:03 PM
I quit watching when they "pussified" the event with rough driving penalties and tire cautions so the less prepared teams could get their setups right. The 3 car teams also bug me when the good driver on the team won't put a lap the bad driver on the team. The last full race I watched was the Bickyard when Jimmy Johnson was leading and good year brought a crap tire to the race. Well they let all the teams come in for a mandatory caution every 20 laps. Now when you let the 48 team in first they will pretty much leave first then lead almost the entire race which they did and Jimmy won from the pole. Gus That Indy tire debacle race was worse than that. Some teams had cars that ran well for 15-20 laps. Others had a hard time going 12. They were throwing cautions right at the window, 10-12 laps, where the 48 fell of fast. The 99 was set up and could run more laps before the tire let go. The last segment of the race, less than 12 active race speed laps, coincidence. Not a fricken chance. If you know what you got and the tire letrs go in 13 laps you better be pitting before that, if you can go 15-20, then you have an advantage which is what racing should be about. More shenanigans and manipulation from the brass at Na$crap. Nascrap is a chevy/gm show the last 40 years.
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07/26/24 08:12 PM
Nice 69 340 dart..49,000 I believe...70 black shaker hood hemi cuda tribute sold for 75,000 orig a slant six car.
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07/26/24 08:09 PM
Thanks for the update OUTLAWSSAA! I was just curious about it. It's one of the cars that hasn't been seen out anywhere I guess.
I kept all my old magazines w/ pics of the KOS cars. There's a good wheelie pic of Rob's bee in the 727 rebuild book I have.
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07/26/24 07:32 PM
It's missing little air valve near the carb throat inlet. It's part of the snorkel door operation. Seems like a 73. But look at the https://www.nicksgarage.com/aircleaner.htm site to ID them. In some of those years the only different the HiPo air cleaners from the non HiPo is the color (orange). That hurts value. 72's (and some 73's) have a special cold air trap door, and 74's are oval snorkel and some 400/440 dual oval snorkel.
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07/26/24 07:18 PM
I would hook it up to the charge station and pull it down to a vacuum for about 2 hours to remove all moisture from the system. Your pressures are too low for a hot humid day. The symptoms do indicate an expansion valve freezing up and when it warms up it opens and lets the freon circulate again. I think you can access the expansion valve at the firewall on that car if the evacuate and recharge doesn't clear the moisture. The filter/drier is built into the condenser so you may have to replace the condenser for a proper repair. I have seen very few compressor issues on the Corolla and most of the time it comes down to a flow issue. Gus Thank you, I watched a vidio and it showed the exp valve inside the dash, ugg. Why in dash and not under hood?! I’ll do what you said and might try the flush kit too.
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07/26/24 07:14 PM
Do you mean 10 days ago or 8 years ago? Didn't anybody learn from Y2K?
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07/26/24 06:38 PM
This would be a good point to be sure the egr valve is not leaking. A removal and cleaning the carbon off the surfaces may help a lot. Over the years, faulty egr valves have caused a lot of stumbles and hesitations. If they are leaking exhaust into the intake when its not suppose to be is a pretty regular occurrence. Worn stems in the egr valve tend to cause a vacuum leak as well.
We are all assuming you have inspected all the vacuum hoses to be sure none of them are faulty, correct?
As far as my help, its been 30+ years for both me and 50 years of wear for the car, since I've dealt with this stuff. This thread is like going down memory lane for me.
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07/26/24 05:48 PM
That's a pretty cool Dart. I have to say that this look, to me, is one of the dumbest looks ever. You have a scoop sticking out of the hood. Why keep the factory ones on there? Never understood cutting a stock Road Runner or Dart GTS hood (insert performance hood here) for a bug catcher or blower, either. Anyway, cool you found the Dart's owner. Is it a 440? Nope it's a small block of some variant. Didn't ask details. Ah, seeing it on the desktop it is much easier to tell that it's a small block. Lol. My phone screen just isn't big enough.
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07/26/24 05:46 PM
Thanks guys! Sorry for my ugly [censored] in the pic.
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07/26/24 05:42 PM
My name is Bob Horman. I keep listing on all 1968 Mopar HEMI cars. I don't have any information in my list on this particular car. I save the serial number in my A listing on 68 Mopar Hemis. Thanks for the info (SN) Bob H
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07/26/24 05:38 PM
273221762174030021
Good thru 8/23/24
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07/26/24 05:03 PM
I'm 63 and have been considering selling my Dart for a couple years now. It's a pump gas street/strip deal that I initially bracket raced for a few years, I started with a 340 running 7.20's, then a 408 running 6.50's to the current 434 running 6.20's. When the heads up street car stuff started, and I ran it and did well for a couple years. The car is naturally aspirated and does well if I'm running other naturally aspirated cars and there lies the rub. For the last few years, the local tracks have lumped all the cars together, power adders and non power adders. My last race I made the 16 car field, there was one other n/a car in the class. I made it down to four cars, the other three were blown late model Mustangs. That was two years ago and the cars are much faster now so my small block would be fodder for the power adder cars.
I don't care to bracket race and rarely drive the car now. It requires very little maintenance, an oil change and run the valves once a year and it's ready to go. The plugs last for several years, it doesn't get hot or have any issues on the street. I just think it's time to move on or for a change. The only reason I haven't tried to sell it is because I don't want to deal with the idiots that have no serious intentions about buying it.
I'm thinking I'd like to have a nice mid 70's to a mid 80's short wheel base truck with a/c or a later 6.4l Challenger. Sort of the situation I'm in w/ my cuda. I've always done headsup stuff. I used to do OK in the streetcar shootouts when I just ran all motor, but got tired of getting outrun by power adder cars. So I put on the spray, but I'm always a day late and a dollar short. I do pretty good against other nitrous cars, but the turbo guys are in the 4s (1/8 mile stuff here). I have no desire to do what's required to go faster w/ my car. I run the Mopar KOS deal occasionally b/c it's been fun, even though I know I'm just donating to the pot and usually out in the first round. As entry fees and the cost of everything else rises, it's making me really question what I'm doing. I don't take the car to the track more than 2 or 3 times a year now. To be honest, one of my most fun track days was running a bracket race. I have my dad's road runner and my 454SS truck that I usually play around w/ on the street. I enjoy that as much as anything else.
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07/26/24 04:48 PM
The 7th photo of the unrestored car (right rear angle) illustrates the gloss level I recall.
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07/26/24 04:28 PM
Sean your car looks a bit fat going down track in that video. Just an observation...Oh yeah throw some good fuel in it since you are chasing all the horsepowers....
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07/26/24 02:45 PM
They also talked about torque management and pulling power in 1st and 2nd gear to get the transmission to live. I'm sure part of that is for the geriatric gentlemen that purchase these that can't react quickly enough to control wheelspin.
I question that. So that would imply their trans handles less torque input in the lower gears then the upper gears? The engine puts out the same torque normally no matter what gear it is connected to. What does change is the cars grip as speed increases mainly due to DF referencing all the benefits mentioned in the video about the large efficient rear wing. This impressive car only has so much traction at low speed no matter who the driver is, that solution is normally called traction control?
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