Thank you too for the input, I am not one to rely on "hopefully" although a standalone fuse panel was considered.

Thank you 340six, Cab_Burge, ruderunner and crackedback for reading the entire post and answering or giving input related to the question. I appreciate it more than you guys know. I figured the system Cab described was what I needed but didn't want to presume it.

Cab_Burge do I need to run a wire from the switch all the way back or will just tapping the light wires serve as the trigger? Just ensuring I'm correct that I will only use 3 of the pins on each relay for this project.

Crackedback was it you that built or builds the headlight isolation harnesses? If so is it needed if I'm running LED headlights?

I'm remembering a Turbine Bronze '68 Road Runner Hemi 4-speed Decor coupe in Iowa I passed on, because its right quarter needed some cosmetic work...
That was in 1983. Other than the quarter, it was a running, driving, and decent car.
The guy wanted $10,000 firm for it...

Number one problem when a GM starter just clicks and doesn't turn over is the solenoid. Number two problem when that happens is bad brushes. If you can rap the starter with a hammer and it cranks over, suspect it needs brushes. A jumper wire will cover up a lot of sins by delivering more voltage which just covers up the problem, but doesn't solve it. Either way, I'd rebuild the original starter if you want reliabilty, since many parts store rebuilds are carp. Another solution is replacing the old starter with a brand new super small PMGR starter. There are many later model cars that use them and older cars can be retrofitted, especially if the car or truck in question has a HEI distributor. The PMGR starters usually require different starter specific bolts, due to the having metric size mounting holes and the block having US spec threads. Some starters come with the needed bolts, some don't. Number of teeth on flywheel/flexplate determines whether a straight across or angled bolt pattern is used. Here's a PDF on Remy starters that can be interchanged.

Linky -->PMGR Remy Chevrolet starter info.

A 1970 Monte Carlo came with points, and a PMGR starter that has the "R" terminal would be needed. If the distributor has been replaced with an HEI, the "R" terminal on the starter is not needed.

I've dealt with Jim Kramer many times, I actually bought my 'Cuda from him. He's a great guy and honest, but it seems a little hard to get in touch with him lately.

Exhaust is tack'd in place. Starting with the OE Magnum manifolds, used most of the OE Jeep system plus a couple sections of 2" and 2.5" tubing here and there, rerouted to go around the relocated trans crossmember etc, and will final weld after the rest of the chassis is done. Fuel system plumbing is next, the brake lines, then the body goes on for mods.

Gonna be neat to hear how the Mag 360 sounds with the Jeeps' muffler and resonator - bet it sounds good. Anyway, progress.







trans crossmember was moved back about 5 inches to line up with the longer unit (was at the blue arrow, now at the orange), and now everything clears 'clean' -






...eliminated a 'flattened' area here I think originally for track bar clearance -




also...if this is just not the kind of reading material enjoyed in here just let me know - doesn't seem to be much interest and I won't mind saving the time to post it...

I’d rather run what I can afford and race weekly rather than not being able to race again. I like racing to much to sit at home. [/quote]

So do you condone what Speedmaster did to this guy in the name of getting cheap parts?

I called and looks like this source is going to be my fastest solution.
Thanks for the link!
Wolf

one of my main concerns on the used ones were being wore out and needing expensive repairs.

My list of criteria would be (if I didn’t have a cheap head! 🤣🤣)
1) fit
2) weight

The less weight you have flailing around attached to your head the better.

What used to be, and what currently is may be completely different these days, but you used to be able to replace the solenoid on the old GM starters. You have to remove the starter from the car to replace the solenoid.
That said, I have to wonder if since someone ran a wire down to the starter, if the problem lays elsewhere (unless the starter is a royal pain to change). I'm betting the extra wire you spoke of bypasses everything between the battery and the starter. Someone didn't know how to chase down the problem, or couldn't find the problem, so they just added the extra wire. It is possible that simply replacing the extra wire with another will make it work "like it always has".

Personally, if it was mine, I'd replace the starter as a starting point, if its still the original, its spent a lot of time just sitting, or it could be completely wore out. You will have to pull it out to do just about anything with it, I probably would not put that old starter back in without a complete rebuild unless you know its full history. We have places in our town that actually rebuild the old starters and alternators, might be better then the new Chiniseum stuff on the market these days.

Anyone know a good source for hp clutch rebuilders?

I’d rather run what I can afford and race weekly rather than not being able to race again. I like racing to much to sit at home.