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10/24/24 12:14 AM
Much appreciated JB
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10/24/24 12:08 AM
these are mine no im not selling
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10/24/24 12:07 AM
I see rock auto says 23 min. flow rating. Is this GPH??
CARTER M6866 Specifications
Gasket or Seal Included Yes
Inlet Outside Diameter (MM) 8.0
Inlet Quantity 1
Inlet Type Hose
Maximum Pressure 7
Minimum Flow Rating 23
Minimum Pressure (PS) 5.5
Mounting Hardware Included No
Mounting Hole Quantity 2
Outlet Fitting Thread Size (IN) 1/2-20 UNF-2B
Outlet Quantity 1
Outlet Type Threaded
Pump Type Mechanical
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10/23/24 11:46 PM
Last I checked the John Scotti dealer had two nearly identical 66 Hemi Belvedere I's, one automatic and one 4 speed. I spoke with Claude Scotti several months back about the 4 speed car and he mentioned that it was the second time they had owned that car. Part of me thought it was too much of a coincidence that the same dealer had both these cars and that maybe they came from the same prior owner.
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10/23/24 11:36 PM
Glyptol works great, have used it on and off for over 20 years
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10/23/24 11:28 PM
NOS lower 72 Cuda Grill insert, comes with original box, 300. or bo, plus shipping can send pictures .
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10/23/24 11:25 PM
What Cab said, and I have never been a fan of the stroker motors with small heads on them. Unless you are using it to tow to the races....  Really just depends on your goals. My 512 definitely falls into what I call a tractor motor. Does exactly what I wanted. Run 11.0 in a heavy vehicle. My wagon is 4200 lbs. I shift at 5400 and next yr will be its 10th season. It's been reliable and maintenance free. I'm sure I just jinxed it but I've definitely gotten my money out of it. Oh they will definitely work. Especially in a heavy car. Just not optimal for anything with gear and higher rpm. Completely agree.
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10/23/24 11:07 PM
Looks like a good cruiser. Price is high, so one might be tempted to buy a project for 1/4 the price, however you'd blow right past the asking price of this one just getting it painted alone.
Instrument cluster is missing the silver/chrome highlights around the gauge openings I think? Too much black there behind the steering wheel so something is not quite right.
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10/23/24 11:00 PM
I agree the nylon shrink wrapped looks really good.
Doug
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10/23/24 10:57 PM
2009 Dodge Challenger Brochure NOS, $10 + Shipping. Payment via US Postal Money Order Only! Shipping: US Address Only!
Call Steve 810-629-1097
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10/23/24 10:27 PM
Nice quarter repairs
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10/23/24 10:20 PM
[quote=VITC_GTX]Getting ready to tackle the cowl rust in the '62 Dart 440. I plan on taking the upper cowl out by drilling out the spot welds to I can get to the lower cowl. I'll need to take out the windshield out to do that.
I
Reinstalling the OEM glass and seal ? - Easy peasy As long as the seal is still soft and pliable. If its hard and brittle like a lot of old seals are, easy is deffenately not the correct descriptive word for the installation. I had a glass company install with a new seal on my Roadrunner..... it took them 2 hours...and they were not happy..... lol When the rubber doesn't fit, the install is a nightmare. My son has a 57 Dodge wagon. It needs a new windshield (plenty OEM versions are available) but the only company that offers the rubber tells you it doesn't fit well. That company recommends you locate a car with a good pliable rubber gasket! His windshield doesn't leak, and the rubber on his 67 year old car is still soft, but he is concerned about it leaking with the new glass. The glass installer he will need to use is the same guy that installed the corner windows on my 49. I plan on buying the gasket from Detroit Muscle Technologies. I think they are a sponsor here on Moparts. I hope the gasket fits and works well!!
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10/23/24 10:13 PM
Yeah the electronics were replaced 80k ago.... When it was rebuilt. No check engine light or anything and it's intermittent when it acts right vs acts stupid so I'm not thinking it's a gov sensor or solenoid issue. I could be wrong though.
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10/23/24 10:01 PM
what is the factory applied orange on the modern hemi. its not race hemi orange it looks more like a dull pumpkin orange, anyone know??
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10/23/24 09:36 PM
What I found online, https://servicingmanuals.com/cars/dodge/dakota/Fuel Level Sensor: Description and Operation
CIRCUIT OPERATION
The fuel level sensor is a variable resistor. Circuit G4 connects the fuel level sensor to the fuel
gauge in the instrument cluster. Circuit F14 from fuse 14 in the fuse block supplies voltage to the
fuel gauge. The fuel level sensor draws voltage from circuit F14 through the fuel gauge on circuit
G4.
As current flows through the coils in the fuel gauge, it creates a magnetic field. One of the coils in
the gauge receives fixed current. The other coil is connected to the level sensor. The magnetic field
controls the position of the fuel gauge pointer.
The fuel level sensor contains a variable resistor. As the position of the float arm on the fuel level
sensor changes, the resistor changes the current flow through the second coil in the fuel gauge. A
change in current flow alters the magnetic field in the fuel gauge, which changes the pointer
position.
Circuit G8 from the level sensor connects to cavity C26 of the Powertrain Control Module (PCM).
Circuit G8 provides the fuel level input to the PCM. Circuit K4 provides ground for the signal.
Circuit Z1 provides the ground path for the fuel level sensor. Testing Fuel Gauge: Testing and Inspection
1. Place ignition switch in On position, then disconnect fuel gauge sending unit connector at top of
tank and observe gauge. Needle should move to
or remain at low end of scale.
2. Connect a jumper wire between sending unit ground cavity and gauge input cavity in body half of
sending unit connector and observe gauge.
Needle should move to high end of scale.
3. If needle performs as specified, replace fuel gauge sending unit; if not, proceed as follows:
a. Remove jumper wire and place ignition switch in Off position, then disconnect battery ground
cable. b. Check for continuity between sending unit ground cavity in body half of sending unit
connector and ground. If continuity exists, continue with
procedure; if not, repair ground circuit as necessary.
c. Remove instrument cluster and bezel, then disconnect printed circuit No. 1 connector 1 and
probe connector cavity H for continuity to ground.
If continuity exists, repair short as necessary; if not, continue with procedure.
d. Check for continuity between cavity H and gauge input cavity of sending unit body half
connector. If continuity exists, replace fuel gauge; if
not, repair open circuit as necessary |
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10/23/24 08:52 PM
Mopar Matt > Matt Cholak > Matthew Wayne Cholak. I remember finding him online just a few years ago. Are we sure he has passed away? This is who I'm thinking of https://www.facebook.com/matt.cholak.5 That's the dark-haired guy I met in St. Ignace way back. Sorry to hear he passed away.
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10/23/24 08:46 PM
well done . cant imagine how more difficult that style of racing is
Tex
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10/23/24 08:38 PM
Well, I did fab a cool chin spoiler
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10/23/24 08:02 PM
One of the intakes looks just like the one you have, the other, also a Wieand, is roughly an inch shorter.
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10/23/24 07:46 PM
I've seen Super Stock pulling tractors split them lengthwise above the crank. Crankcase stays in the chassis with the rods and pistons flapping in the breeze and the head with the cylinders still attached is elswhere/under the tractor.
Earth shattering kaboom!
Kevin "...elsewhere." From what I've seen on YouTube, 'elsewhere' seems to be about two counties over. Pretty sure some a them guys ain't gonna be happy until they've put half a cylinder head into low-earth orbit.
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10/23/24 07:21 PM
Did you hook up the ammeter? I think all the power from bulkhead connector goes to ammeter then it goes out from there.
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10/23/24 07:20 PM
Yep, just a bit more grinding and a tapered tap to get the tube to screw in all the way. I think i will use a thin paper gasket under the adaptor, glued on with Indianhead . That should keep it in place. Anyone know the torque spec on the adaptor screws? Thanks to 440Jim, it will be internal oiled. From my build notes, I used Loctite on the ΒΌ allen head bolts (socket head cap screws) and torqued to 100 lb-in. 572 B1 org Part 5 - Build Notes [block oil pickup hole]No more than 120 lb-in (10 lb-ft).
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10/23/24 06:42 PM
I enjoy reading about others retirement. I'll literally have to keep working till the end so I don't have to eat dog food. I told a buddy of mine I have to work until noon the day of my funeral. He said that's nothing, I have to drive myself to the cemetery. Kevin
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They will crack, usually between cylinders #1 and3#, if you make above 650 HP and get close to max tune 
