07/12/25 03:45 AM
The issue is they don’t have any frame of reference regarding how to rate your risk, so they’re canceling your policy. They don’t encounter the situation often enough to worry about assessing what risks, if any, are posed by your car being on a homemade dolly. It’s outside the scope what they want to insure.
Yes, I had not thought about it that way, but I believe you are correct. I'm pretty sure as well that the agents and underwriters don't even know what a project car is or why it needs to be on a dolly, not jack stands. I don't want to over complicate this with too many details, but some readers may be interested to know just how unprofessional and sloppy these people really are, how they operate. 1. Another unexpired policy, same house, same insurer, existed. It was in my wife's name. On her death, AAA insisted a new policy had to be written in my name. So, okay, let's do a new policy to replace the unexpired one. 2. Old policy had a discount for 7-year old roof. They refused to put the same discount on the new policy until proven. After much searching, I found the roofer's billing. Agent said, "Unacceptable. This is just a bill, not a paid invoice." I went back to the roofer for an invoice marked "Paid" and submitted it. The agent never replied to me on this. 3. I figured, if a new policy is written on the same house, and the old policy is not expired, the agent will surely automatically cancel the old policy and refund me, right? No. I had to call for cancel and ask for a refund. 4. Refund check arrives. Wrong amount. I call again (each call is 30 minutes wait time or more) to protest the amount. I ask, how was this calculated? Answer, "Oh, it's the date you called to cancel," not the date of the policy switch. 5. The cancellation letter said the policy would be cancelled 7/10/25. Knowing they wouldn't refund unless I called, I called and asked for a refund effective 7/10. Answer was, no, they are cancelling 7/15 and cannot cancel or refund 7/10 since a 7/15 cancellation is already in the system.
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07/12/25 03:29 AM
Well, we're on the road and, at present, a day ahead of schedule. That may all change this weekend. 900+ miles since we left Fresno Wednesday night. We should arrive in Minnesota Wednesday or Thursday to pick up my trailer. Then after a couple of days we're headed to Indiana by way of Rhino's place. Space in the trailer will be available after I pick it up.
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07/12/25 03:21 AM
I have used QC coatings a couple times. Very good top notch work.
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07/12/25 03:10 AM
Not that I am suggesting a better scam, but the criminal fake website would be more convincing if it didn't claim such steep discounts. If a $9000 engine was claimed to be reduced by $3000 that would be more convincing than it being discounted by $7000. Still making the rounds this morning. Last time I reported it FB said no problem was detected. I got this when I reported it. They keep reposting it.
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07/12/25 03:02 AM
X2 Yes, he is a good guy, he saved me some headaches.
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07/12/25 02:50 AM
 Hi Vinny , I checked a 1968 & 1969 Parts Manual , Section 7-06-1 , for forged crank single groove , should be without AC , and without P Steering , and it should be Part # 1855152 . Measures approx 6 1/2" OD . Ronnie  Ronnie, Thank you for the quick response.
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07/12/25 02:36 AM
Great. Now I have to see how old my Valvoline VR1 I have is. Bought it on sale a couple years ago and not sure of exactly what year. It is stored in a closet in a spare bedroom, so pretty climate controlled. How long should that be good for? It's VR1 10w30 conventional. I'm sending them an email and will post back what they say as I have some VR-1 stored in the basement back room. pretty well controlled temp wise and no lights except for a 75 W bulb that is used very sparingly. if we can keep the post active 
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07/12/25 02:19 AM
 | | What do you need on the other end to attach to the pedal?
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07/12/25 02:15 AM
First question, Have you verified the actual temperature with a thermocouple probe or equivalent ? Most newer DVM's accommodate the TC probes. Both are cheap and useful tools to have. you can get an 1/8" sheathed probe and install it as close as possible to the T-sat. Extensions for the probes will allow you to put the meter it in the car and compare readings 
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07/12/25 01:59 AM
They scraped the track last night. Ran a 9.261 and 9.259 on 9.25 index in qualifying. Made the 32 car shootout. Zero hook in rd 1. Someone said it looked like the waterbox kid sprayed the back of the car with the hose, 1.411 60ft. Had a decent .017 but couldn't get there. All the ballast is off the nose. Shock rebound was loosened in the front for today. Loosened the rear as well for Q3 in the morning. I'll make sure it has enough to get to 9.25 tomorrow. It's $6k to win.
Doug
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07/12/25 01:02 AM
Has it always done this or was it different before/ after the shift kit?
I usually use transgo myself but even within that brand I bet there were a couple of different shift kits available for that trans. I usually use the "lightest" one.
But I remember my first shift kit, a B&M in a Cordoba of all things with 2.somwyhing gears, and a stock (probably "low stall" converter, would bark 2nd without even trying and about snap your neck off with both shifts.
And that wasn't even using the "race" /competition" settings within the kit instructions.
I recently did a 46RE (which is most likely what you have) in a Durango and it's definitely a noticeable shift now, but nothing as crazy as that B&M I did in the late 80s.... I did use the Superior "super servos" in this build, which I've never done before but did use my usual transgo TFOD-3 that I usually use. ( this trans has had that shift kit for the previous 50-some K before the overhaul.
I added a couple of "repair plugs" in different spots from transgo and these different servos, neither of which I've done on a trans rebuild before. And this Durango does have the 9-1/4 rear in it, with 316k miles and nothing ever done to that other than a couple of fluid changes since Ive owned it
I just pulled a 28' jayco 3 hours from home with it yesterday, I did lock out OD and paid close attention to my added trans temp gauge. The trans just bumped 200* a couple of times, the first time we had to stop for a "pit stop" anyway for the grand kid and the 2nd time I stopped for gas at about 1 hour intervals and each time we stopped the trans temp hung at 165-180 for quite a few miles after each stop... The only thing weird was it wanted to "hang" in 2nd a couple of times a bit longer than I expected, but driving today with no trailer it was back to normal shifts.
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07/12/25 12:42 AM
Looking for a 727 trans for a Poly 318. Please PM me for details. Thanks
Gus
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07/12/25 12:41 AM
Great: that and National French Fry Day will do wonders for our already overweight society.
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07/12/25 12:09 AM
yes. that is how I test.
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07/11/25 11:42 PM
I had one, it didn't even cost me $3k
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07/11/25 11:36 PM
NOS - rear defogger & parts.
What you see in the pictures is what you get. No defroster vent for the package tray.
Located in NW/Indiana -
$150 + the ride or can arrange local pickup
PM here on the board
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07/11/25 11:31 PM
USED - rear window for 71-72 Dart/Demon/Duster
Factory OEM - has a light diagonal scratch. It's as long as the painter's tape in the photos. Great for driver.
$60
WILL NOT SHIP!
PICKUP IN NW/INDIANA
PM HERE ON THE BOARD
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07/11/25 11:25 PM
Do you still have this radiator?
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07/11/25 11:13 PM
Please post progress of the intake.
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07/11/25 09:59 PM
So far, Windows 11 on the laptop seems to be doing good. Learning some differences between 10 and 11. I ordered some RAM to max it out at 8GB, currently has 4GB installed. Maybe that will help out some as well. Figure for $20, it's worth a shot to see if it helps. If it does, the desktop will get 11 installed and RAM maxed out as well.
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07/11/25 08:05 PM
I love those cars! 
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07/11/25 07:06 PM
So won’t the pivot pin just slide in the slot and not move the linkage at all? Read the previous replies, the carb pin PULLS the linkage forward rather than pushing it back like a Mopar.
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07/11/25 06:44 PM
Well, FWIW I looked in both of mine:
The '69 - an original, 17,000-mile car - has a 1-piece molding at the top. Looks like the pinchweld covering at the B-pillar, though F-shaped.
The '68 has the 3-piece upper in hard plastic, as previously described.
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They replace the broken one but did not offer to replace the broken Crower solid roller lifter or pay for fixing the cam lobe 
We made 8 or 10 pulls before swapping the pushrods and made sure the oil and water temps were identical and the D.A. was within 5 ft between the pull before switching the pushrods. The next three pulls saw a HP and torque gain from 4500 RPM up to 7500 RPM, 8HP at 7300 RPM and 5 Ft. lbs. at 5200 RPM with no other changes 
