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04/25/19 01:52 PM
Often times, removing the PV will slightly improve the “hit” on the line.
I’d take it out and see what happens........ easy enough to put it back in.
Do the OE bowls have site plugs?
If not, I’m guessing the floats are a little too high, and/or the fuel pressure is slightly too high.
Holes in all 4 butterflies?
Better check the wording on that in the rules.
We had an issue with that years ago.
We had to replace the rear blades(with some that had no holes) before we could continue running, and they disallowed our qualifying runs. Yup, I've seen guys get bounced for having the wrong head on the butterfly screws, let alone modding the butterfly's themselves.
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04/25/19 01:52 PM
Thanks Gene, looking at their online info, I just see where you can order a bunch of the same size. I guess I am going to have to clean up the old ones, paint, and reuse....
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04/25/19 01:51 PM
Did it shift correctly with this linkage before the rebuild? Same valve body? Why did it need a rebuild, symtoms? If the throttle lever was all the way back at full throttle, pressure should have been sufficient to prevent slip. If it was freewheeling on the gear change it was definately slipping. It's now possible the rear clutch is damaged. Caused by broken input shaft rings, cut piston seal or lack of throttle pressure caused by incorrect throttle linkage adjustment.
Need more info.
Doug
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04/25/19 01:51 PM
I'm redoing a 68 Road Runner and trying to mock up and fit my panels. These outer wheel houses fit awful. The flange is no where close to the original. I was wondering maybe if AMD designed these to be a repair part instead of a replacement? The flange has an offset and I've seen at least one article where these were installed with the flange to the outside of the inner panel. The inner wheel houses fit pretty darn good from what I can tell, just clamped in place. All my AMD metal so far other than these outers has fit nice. Any thoughts? I know there were a few fitment issues with original/early releases of the B body and Charger outer wheelhouse wells, are your purchases recent?, and directly from AMD? or another vendor?, are you sure you have the right PN/application/part(s)?
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04/25/19 01:51 PM
on our serpentine belt kits we mount everything to the water pump housing on a big block
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04/25/19 01:50 PM
Would you spend 1,500 to 2k$ for 1? The Reid Super Hydra case for the T400 is $1500+ so I can't imagine it being any cheaper than those.
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04/25/19 01:49 PM
Supercuda, you are awesome, thanks!!
Yes, I now have a 4 groove pulley for the crank and a single pulley for the waterpump.
Had to order an idler pulley, was not aware of that.
Thanks!!
Jim
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04/25/19 01:49 PM
is it a survivor w/original paint?
is it early or late production?
is it CA or MI, or Canada built?
is it stripe delete? "V68" So what is your car? These are great questions? Give a brake down of your fender tag.
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04/25/19 01:45 PM
Turning the drive power to the pump 90 degrees twice seems like a bad idea to me.
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04/25/19 01:45 PM
What engine?
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04/25/19 01:40 PM
If you can get the Wisecos for $400ish w/rings I doubt you'll find a better deal than that.
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04/25/19 01:29 PM
Shawn.. very nice.. the paint job looks great  
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04/25/19 01:19 PM
This original owner Hemi car is now confirmed for the display! ![[Linked Image]](http://i64.tinypic.com/smq7tz.jpg)
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04/25/19 01:16 PM
A nice size deep cycle will cover your needs.. it will hold better power before falling off
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04/25/19 01:02 PM
You need to look at how these devices were wired in.
I'm talking about the MSD with blinky lights and the fuel pump. Sketch them into your circuit diagram.
Then look for voltage drops between the battery and the devices.
The fact that it turns over means the starter relay is getting tripped, and the battery has enough juice to fire the starter solenoid. So we know those circuits are flowing.
Work from there.
Also find the electrical specs for the pump - how many amps does it draw?
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04/25/19 12:35 PM
But speakers? Maybe if you tail gate at a sporting event..
You can enjoy your favorite tunes when you are pushing it.
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04/25/19 12:34 PM
Wow, what a hodge-podged mess. He does have some unique convertible pieces here and there but it looks like a failed attempt to convert a hard top. I would love to cut the rockers open to see if the all-important huge thick metal reinforcements are inside there. Without those in the rockers, even if somebody tries to complete this car it will be doomed.
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04/25/19 12:26 PM
I am going to be pulling my original 273 V8 and pushbutton trans out of my 1965 Belvedere next week if anyone needs it.
It runs EXCELLENT!
It's 100% original right down to the wire looms on the valve covers.
Perfect for Dart, Barracuda or Valiant.
Has 103k miles and starts right up, no smoke or issues.
Trans shifts perfect and I have driven my car around without issues.
Complete from air cleaner to oil pan.
Ready to go.
Videos of cold start and idle/revs. Choke even still works.
$500 for everything.
Call number in pics.
Thanks!
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04/25/19 12:19 PM
 Not much difference. On a street car, I would be more interested in whether one set would be quieter than the other. Lots and lots of noisy gear sets out there nowadays. Dr. Diff is the go-to guy on these matters. Here is a good calculator for you: http://www.wallaceracing.com/calc-gear-tire-rpm-mph.php
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04/25/19 11:03 AM
I haven't used a front plate for 30 years. Never had a problem.
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04/25/19 10:06 AM
I'm busy now to read all replies, but sometimes relays are not installed to handle loads but just to switch the source from one place to another place when triggered, keeping the source active ( i.e. headlight doors on electric concelead headlight systems ). Of course, the relay helps on the load issue at the same time
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04/25/19 09:58 AM
I’ve got two. One is in better shape than the other. Centers are different.
WIW and can someone educate me on the centers.
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