12/04/23 11:57 AM
Keep an eye out on Amazon for deals on Sun Joe. That's where I got mine a few years ago. I have also seen them on Best Buy for daily deals. Saw one the other day, but totally forgot about this post. Sorry.
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12/04/23 11:18 AM
The ATI dampner with magnets is the way to go. I used Andy's bracket that also has a pointer on it. It really cleans everything up nice.
As for why run a crank trigger? Well some engines are that finicky on timing. Some will see decent gains, just by 1/2 degree of timing. Only way to do that is with a crank trigger.
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12/04/23 10:46 AM
I would want to see more undercarriage pics. Say.18k would buy it (worth a try), it might be ok for the do it yourself er who can patch the 1/4s and do his own paint and keep it on the cheap. Not worth a full blown resto where you pay someone else…at all. A 533 rear? Really? Is that even a ratio?
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12/04/23 10:19 AM
It sure about the hate for toyotas. Made in the USA with a made in the USA powertrain, not one from Mexico. Ours has had surprisingly little work after 12 years. Only thing not routine was the struts started leaking about four years ago. That was at 115k I think. I did plugs at 110k, but it didn’t really need them. Mpg never dropped and it idled well, I just thought they had to be cooked…nope. Did four rotors and pads after 120k. Two batteries and two sets of tires. The paint did die after 7 years is only real issue. Oil changes at 10k miles when I was racking up miles all the time. Then yearly when my wife took it over and drove less. Then I quit even bothering with that and it goes about two years on a change for least the last four years. Nobody I know has trouble with these cars. It got over 30 mpg by hand when I drove all interstate, still gets about 25 in mixed use today. What exactly are you guys doing to fudge them up?
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12/04/23 05:41 AM
One of my daily drivers is a 2000 Toyota 4Runner. Great rig, has 240,000 miles on it and it runs like a champ. Doesn't use any oil, still has the original exhaust system, factory installed shocks and springs, etc. Basically trouble free for 24 years. Had to replace a wheel bearing at 200,000 miles and had to replace the valve cover gaskets at 220,000. That is about it.
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12/04/23 05:41 AM
1971 Challenger grille, and grill to latch piece are wanted, Driver quality is ok.
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12/04/23 05:38 AM
New ATI damper, part number 917127E. Fits big block engines with a thicker timing cover such as a gear drive, Jesel belt drive or the Indy cast timing chain cover. The hub is just a little longer than the normal hub, roughly 0.200 longer for extra clearance. $300 includes shipping in the lower 48. PM me on the board. Prefer Paypal or Zelle for payment but will accept cash or money order.
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12/04/23 05:31 AM
You guys act like Toyota has a Monopoly on reliability. That's just not so.
I know some of those "intelligent" Toyota driver should go into the dealership for brake job and come out with their wallets lightened by with an extra $3500 of credit card debt. There are lots of stupid people in the world. You think Dodge dealers don't fleece anyone? Yep Dodge dealers are just as bad with the scam. Wife took her jeep with 2008 with 1010 K mile on it for an oil change. Called from the dealer ship telling me they said it had numerous problems the needed attention. Told her to have them give her a written estimate and come home. Total repair estimate was close to $4,000. When she got home I put the Jeep on the lift and went through their list. Found no problems. So no repairs were made. They figured they could scam her because she wouldn’t know the difference. Next oil change I took in to the same dealership. Surprise surprise they found no problems.
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12/04/23 05:28 AM
Yes, I used a Lean Burn distributor once a long time ago. But I grew tired of the crappy spark plug wire ends that those old distributors had so eventually I switched over to a locked out MSD. After that I migrated to a belt drive distributor. The belt drive distributor solved a bunch of issues although it did create a couple in the process.
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12/04/23 04:52 AM
almost a shame to do rt 66 because there are lots of little things to stop at depending on which stretch and you wouldn't be able to because you're trying to complete the drive. A few of us C body guys did Chicago to St. Louis and even after I did hours and hours of planning we still ran way behind and didn't see everything and had to run I-55 a lot more than I wanted. Good point on the never enuff time during an event, Since the route is not a loop, some of us from the north will be backtracking home. That would provide an opportunity to more closely check out things that we had to breeze by during the event. If anyone does that rt 66 race and wanted to extend themselves back into IL I have routes and research I'd be happy to share. There are some original chunks of 1926 alignment out there that we ran on that give quite the perspective of what was considered a highway 100 years ago. The oldest stuff is south of Springfield so you don't have to go forever into IL. Also, depending on the route in MO there's cool stuff including some original alignment at Devil's Elbow Bridge (you exit the old 4 lane 66 to get on the original 66) https://maps.app.goo.gl/5MyF5VSd4EkeojP87
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12/04/23 04:31 AM
Good friend of mine whose son works as wrench at a Toyota dealership says their service bays are full of broken Toyotas every day. Same with Honda, a dude I went to high school with was a Honda wrench at a Honda dealership for close to 30 years, broken Hondas every day. His personal vehicle is a Dodge Ram 1500. Japanese cars aren't too bad I guess, they're just really overrated.
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12/04/23 03:51 AM
With a crank trigger you can use any beater distributor. The cost yhen is very close. i bought a close out 440 source billet ball bearing unit with no elctronics for $25 Doug Hint...old Mopar Lean Burn distributors were solid shaft, no advance, spinning a reluctor and a rotor button. Period. Pull the reluctor/plate/guts, and voila, you have a perfect crank trigger distributor. Probably for free if you can find one.
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12/04/23 03:32 AM
Let me clarify my statement on Mopar not doing any wind tunnel tests on the 1969 Dodge Charger 500. I was told by Richard Pettys Brother in 1998 or maybe late 1997 that Richard had wanted to race one of the 1969 Dodge Daytona Chargers for the 1969 season, he was told that they, the Mopar race gods, wouldn't let him do that so he raced for Ford in 1969. As a result of that change Plymouth came out with the 1970 Superbird and Richard came back to race one of them (probably more than one of them) for the 1970 season
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12/04/23 03:15 AM
Good point.
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12/04/23 03:14 AM
The biggest problem with a Prius lasting 386,000 miles is that some poor soul has to drive it that far!
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12/04/23 03:00 AM
If the block is not drilled for oiling (optional on Indy blocks) the only oil they get is the drain back from the top (which is plenty). You cannot run any hydraulic lifter or lifters that oil the bushing or bearing unless you drill it or plumb oil to each lifter bore by a Frankenstein Manifold in the lifter valley (not recomended ) Todd
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12/04/23 02:56 AM
I was fortunate to have a mechanic next door to my shop for the last 25 years. Really knows his stuff and reasonably priced, weeks to get your stuff in the door. I have learned what to stay far away from and what is great. Toys Hondas Subaroos are long lasting vehicles, had a Prious with 386,000 miles with engine miss (original batteries) turns out a frayed injector wire, still getting up. If you want a car that will eat you alive buy a Range Rover, cam sensor was 5 grand and took a month to get! He will tell you ANY domestic new car is junk right now. I had to buy a SnapOn scanner box to keep my 2015 SRT out of the dealers shop with all the codes that keep coming up (31,000 miles) out of warranty. Codes started the month after that. Tell me that’s not programmed into the computer. As far as the brake job costing big $$, anytime going to ANY dealer will cost big. Hook up to their machine is a flat $175, then $125 an hour and triple $ for parts. Buy something to stay away from them.
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12/04/23 02:37 AM
You couldn't pay me to drive a Toiletta, flip it ASAP! Toiletta fanboys love that junk for some reason, I have never been able to figure it out... Rhino- what's not to love about this portion of my above reply:? "No car payment, stone cold reliability and fantastic fuel economy. Should have reasonable insurance cost as well." I like my daily drivers to be pure low cost and practical and that way they free up $$ for the sexy car and other life needs. What is your quality of life worth? It's like driving a low end home appliance. Because it is a low end appliance. A lot like the large girl at closing time......she'll get the job done but you would rather not have anyone see you take her home. I can safely say that my $95K Hellcat does not have the fit and finish quality of my $30K Honda.
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12/04/23 02:36 AM
You guys act like Toyota has a Monopoly on reliability. That's just not so.
I know some of those "intelligent" Toyota driver should go into the dealership for brake job and come out with their wallets lightened by with an extra $3500 of credit card debt. There are lots of stupid people in the world. You think Dodge dealers don't fleece anyone?
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12/04/23 02:28 AM
charger parts came off 1969 fits other "b" body's ?
inside day/night mirror side marker bezels radio bezel flip top fuel caps 1/4 extensions pr. gas cap bezel r/t emblem model/year ?? console bezels pr. inside door handles pr. door handle black knob door handles chrome knob pr. each item or pair $45.00 shipped USPS lower 48
prefer check/moneyorder paypal friends/family OK pm, email garycastagna@gmail.com, call 4017871180
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12/04/23 02:12 AM
dart/challenger factory service manual shows 198-225 318-340 383-440 426hemi
$55.00 USPS lower 48 prefer check/moneyorder paypal friends/family OK pm, email garycastagna@gmail.com, call 4017871180
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12/04/23 02:12 AM
Probably worth more than the sum of the parts if you could source a cable and tach to go with it. The tachs new and used are available on the bay. The cable may have to be made but again shouldn't' be a problem
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12/04/23 02:04 AM
factory service manual dart/challenger shows 198-225 318-340 383-440 426hemi $55.00 USPS lower 48 prefer check/moneyorder paypal family/friends OK
pm, email garycastagna@gmail.com, call 4017871180
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12/04/23 01:59 AM
I really do not understand the issues people have been having. I ordered everything through Bergman Autocraft so it included all the fittings, hoses and his column adapter. Box went right in without so much on an issue. This is on an M body that nobody makes [censored] for or even takes into consideration when designing kits. Completely took the slop out of the steering. I've installed two of these kits on separate cars. Just order it all through Bergman! Mark, I for one was not even aware of the refined Bergman kit but did make note of it. My experiences across multiple vehicle makes as stated are with the borgeson Half a-- kits that are far from the "bolt in" they make one think it is. I too have well equipped shop and have been able to address MOST of the issues as AndyF commented. The OP asked about Borgeson and like me may not have been aware of Bergman's refined kits. My experiences in a few cases required trying multiple fluid brands and Adding oil coolers to keep the fluid temp down to alleviate chattering, groaning atc at low speeds or when stopped and turning the wheels. Not sure Bergman has a fix for that based on an earlier post. Borgeson may have also come up with a solution but i wouldn't count on it  No offense meant just responding to you question
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