Is that because the piston dome shape of the Hemi hurts power?

I bought a "kit" with an adjustable temperature setting so it will come on at what ever temp you want (within their pretty wide range), and will turn off when the temp drops so many degrees (10 I believe). They recommend you turn on the fans 10 degrees above the trucks thermostat rating. That kit came with either an insert into the radiator core sensor, or a screw into the cooling system temp sensor and relays (50 amp ratings) with wiring. It can run one or two fans, and will kick one fan on then the second shortly after. I bought the one I have off ebay for something around $50, then you buy which ever fan(s) you want.

Mine cycles on and off regularly once the motor reaches operating temp.

the only complaints I have with the controller I have is 1) The digital temp reads in degrees "C" rather the degrees "F". I had to do the conversion the day I set it. 2) It came without written instructions, you have to read the clearly printed wires to make the electrical connections. 3) The control is "water resistant", but not "water proof". It needs to be placed where it is protected from getting too wet. None of the complaints were much of an issue.

Leadmine products Dana 60 narrowing pucks, you supply 1.25 bar.
110.00 shipped lower 48 or local pickup. Kansas City area.

Leadmine products Dana 60 narrowing pucks, you supply 1.25 bar.
110.00 shipped lower 48 or local pickup. Kansas City area.

What kind of flow numbers did you get out of the eagle heads? I hope to start building a 6.1 stroked to a 426 with around 14.1 compression. I can't decide which is better to use the 6.1 heads or the eagle heads. I have both. Which are both stock and I would like to send them out for porting

You guys are jumping into an ongoing mess with this van.

The reason for the bypass he talks about is because there was a voltage drop between the key and the ballast resistor. The by pass was suppose to be a temporary thing until he had time to chase down the reason for the voltage drop. Apparently since the van has been starting he felt there was no need to look into the cause of his original problem, its been a few months. There has also been a big over charging issue with this van, I don't remember if that got resolved or not. Then there was a fuel pump dumping fuel into the oil pan. I believe he got that changed, but I'm unsure if he ever changed the oil.

The way the bypass has been wired, the ballast is still fully functional. The bypass eliminated all the wiring connections on the van between the key switch and the ballast, it has done nothing else..

So he is back looking for another cheap temporary fix to get it running until the next time it won't start. Not that most of us have not been in that position before, a time or two.

This is going to sound dumb, but look at the position the rotor is pointing at on the distributor, then crank the motor just a little, and see if the rotor has turned at all. The motor may have a bad timing chain. If the rotor is turning, pull # 1 spark plug out of the cylinder and see if there is compression while the motor is cranking over. .if you have compression, see if you can bump the motor so that the timing marks are lined up at "0" and look to see if the rotor is pointing at the place on the distributor cap where the wire to cylinder #1 is. If its off 1 spot, the timing chain may have slipped and it needs to be replaced. If the rotor is pointing at the place the #1 wire is, then move on.

If you have power to the coil, the problem is in the ignition system, It could be as easy as a bad coil wire from the coil to the distributor, a bad coil, or a fried electronic ignition part. The coil wire, and then the coil are the cheapest places to start. If you have something there that runs that has a similar coil wire, or coil, you could swap them over onto the van (one at a time please) and see if the van will start. If it starts, replace which ever one was bad with a new one.

If that doesn't work, your going to have to remind us what ignition system is on your van (it may or may not be original to the can), before we can move forward from here.

Thanks, you nailed it. Wish I had it back, sold the whole car in 78 for $2800 lol

I picked up this plaque the other day. Does anyone know what the “Chrysler Boats Gold Braid Award” was? This one is obviously for 1971/1972. It is missing the object on the small shelf. Was the object a small trophy? Or perhaps a small metal boat? I was thinking of putting a Matchbox Chrysler boat there if I can’t find out what was originally there. Thanks

I like the Monte

That is what I use , .035 , -1 heads . Gary

The MAP sensor is usually a weatherpak for some unknown reason. It is a complete bag of stuff on GM engines. Ford and Chrysler engines can be even more weird.

My advice is get rid of the add ons you did and go back to factory wiring. It worked for years and there is no reason for it not to work now. Just a suggestion.