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12/04/24 07:01 PM
Sorry guys for late replies, sorry no clue on drill speed, it's a habor freight that's well over 10 years old.
Is it possible, maybe I put the side cover with the impeller's back in wrong?
The lines feel like the have pressure on them. I will try to prime and spin the motor at the same time.
It's a 21200 milodon pump, I have attached a picture of what the o rings looked like.
Provide a better picture of that pump cover. Looks bad in this image.
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12/04/24 06:58 PM
Just a warning the od section is heavy so be careful.
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12/04/24 06:57 PM
You have to remove the overdrive assy. to get the output shaft out.
Once you have done that remove the overdrive clutch pack then the shaft comes out once you spread the bearing retainer snap ring like in a 727.
There is the overdrive piston that stays in the OD piston retainer and there is also a shim and needle bearing. Don’t drop the bearing, make sure you put it back the way you found it.
Nothing to worry about in the trans while doing this.
I got the valve body out. I haven't gone through it yet but nothing is obvious. It seems I'm going to have to get the overdrive off. Just to confirm, there is no reason I can't just remove the overdrive And leave the front part of the trans in the truck? It can be reassembled like that? Or would you just pull the trans completely? If the valve body is good then the problem is in the overdrive. You can pull the overdrive unit off and leave the trans main unit in the truck. There is a service gasket that you can buy that goes between the OD and trans. You cut the old gasket off around the OD piston support and use the service gasket to reseal it.
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12/04/24 06:52 PM
Finding any condenser for those trucks is a pain
I just went thru that for my 85 now get to find another for this one
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12/04/24 06:36 PM
You have to remove the overdrive assy. to get the output shaft out.
Once you have done that remove the overdrive clutch pack then the shaft comes out once you spread the bearing retainer snap ring like in a 727.
There is the overdrive piston that stays in the OD piston retainer and there is also a shim and needle bearing. Don’t drop the bearing, make sure you put it back the way you found it.
Nothing to worry about in the trans while doing this.
I got the valve body out. I haven't gone through it yet but nothing is obvious. It seems I'm going to have to get the overdrive off. Just to confirm, there is no reason I can't just remove the overdrive And leave the front part of the trans in the truck? It can be reassembled like that? Or would you just pull the trans completely?
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12/04/24 06:33 PM
I just don’t want to leave it on and would like one that will not impede the stock fuel pump flow when off. Anyone have a pump they like to use? The Airtex 8016S specifies "it can be used as a priming pump that a mechanical pump can pull through when not in use." John do you know if they make a 3/8" version? Not sure on the brand I used a few years back but it was like the one you showed and it didn`t last long at all. Threw it in the trash.
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12/04/24 06:10 PM
one thing i NEVER do, is disconnecting the battery cable [either one] while the engine is running. if one needs to diagnose electrical problems, there are a multitude of better ways than doing this !  Unfortunately a battery isolation switch is an NHRA / FIA requirement if you want to race at "permit" meetings here in Europe and the UK, I think it's the same in the USA. There are ways to minimise any voltage spiking risks though. They usually check it with the engine running and it must cut power to the ignition, stopping the engine.
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12/04/24 05:58 PM
Very old but NEW unused stock hydraulic lifters for small block. Part #HT2011. They even smell old. All have a very consistent crown of .003 checked in my tool fixture. I'm going a different direction. $125 shipped. Postal money order only. PM me here.
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12/04/24 05:58 PM
So who else is looking thru Carigslist for a Diplomat after seeing this?, lol
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12/04/24 05:51 PM
I believe they are still open, but Dan said that the show caused financial troubles for the shop. Filming was disruptive, hard to retain staff, etc.
I've never seen their work in person, but 2 people who have told me that their work is good. Dan mentioned is a radio interview he lost money on every six figure restoration.
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12/04/24 05:41 PM
Very old but NEW unused stock hydraulic lifters for small block. Part #HT2011. They even smell old. All have a very consistent crown of .003 checked in my tool fixture. I'm going a different direction. $125 shipped. Postal money order only. PM me here.
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12/04/24 05:38 PM
I just don’t want to leave it on and would like one that will not impede the stock fuel pump flow when off. Anyone have a pump they like to use? The Airtex 8016S specifies "it can be used as a priming pump that a mechanical pump can pull through when not in use." John do you know if they make a 3/8" version?
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12/04/24 05:28 PM
one thing i NEVER do, is disconnecting the battery cable [either one] while the engine is running. if one needs to diagnose electrical problems, there are a multitude of better ways than doing this !
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12/04/24 05:27 PM
I just don’t want to leave it on and would like one that will not impede the stock fuel pump flow when off. Anyone have a pump they like to use? The Airtex 8016S specifies "it can be used as a priming pump that a mechanical pump can pull through when not in use."
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12/04/24 05:24 PM
That's pretty cool.
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12/04/24 05:22 PM
I used a Carter P4070 for years and had no issues. I currently keep one around for transferring gas from tank to gas cans and back when i need to. i have a carter pump as well, and use it to transfer gas as the above.
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12/04/24 05:21 PM
I am excited to get it. I knew he had it and told him years ago if he ever wanted to sell, I wanted first chance. My friend is more a GM guy but is a race fan, also many, many years ago he worked construction with Darrel.
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12/04/24 05:17 PM
TC 495 fits Big Block Chevy 396, 427, 454 learn something new every day !  It's just the chain part that is used on some Mopars and Chevys, the gears don't interchange between brands. yes, i understand. i wonder now, what the crank to cam centerline is on the GM engines compared to ours, and the difference in crank and cam gears tooth count and outside diameters of each.
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12/04/24 05:16 PM
Humans do become more sensitive to cooler temps as we age. Partly biomechanics, bloodflow, and for some just plain damn tired  Also the amount of...let's call it bodily insulation... Takes a bit for me to adapt to cold temps, been that way since my 30s.
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12/04/24 05:13 PM
my wife is freezing at anything below 80 degrees ! i took the garbage out this morning about 7:30, and it was a balmy 25 degrees....... i just had jeans on and no shirt. my one buddy saw me and stopped. he had on his snowmobile suit, plus about 17 sweatshirts under it, as well as his heated mittens and shoes. had his heated seat and steering wheel on high as well. we shot the bull for 10-15 minutes, and i was very comfortable without a shirt on. he called me a "real cold blooded sumbi$ch".................
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12/04/24 05:09 PM
Here is the 3 bar version. I've got some of each. 3 bar is harder to find though seems like.
I wonder what the difference is inside, if any. Can't answer that! Actually I've never had the cover off one. I think if a person really looks close this can be seen on the car as the regulator sticks out from the firewall some. Small detail for sure but one none the less!!
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12/04/24 05:09 PM
Ran one forever on a few street/strip cars that had 1/2" fuel lines.
Just had a switch for it, worked well for priming, didn't have to run it all the time (cars retained mech pumps).
I use a regulator any time there's an added.
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12/04/24 05:06 PM
always liked that tune.
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12/04/24 05:03 PM
Yup, LA stick throttle cable bracket. Bottom photo is vacuum chingadera found on CA cars, attached to right of carb. (IIRC, vac advance modifier, usually ripped off the cars by the 2nd day, and then a frantic search for it when CA smog inspections arrived...DAMHIK
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