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I am wondering the same. I 've been experimenting with a old piece of hood and 4 coats later it still looks like crap. I am starting to think about spraying my car, If I Knew the Mix Ratio. This rolling seems like a lot of Work and I am Not getting the results that everyone is getting. I think I have a problem with the mix ratio. It would be Nice if there was a set ratio, instead of "Should look like 1% milk". Personally I Can't tell the difference between Skim Milk and 2% or Whole Milk for that matter.





I think we would all love a standard recipe for successful mixing. But I believe the reason why we are deliberately vague is the the ratios are different even between colors by the same paint manufacturers.

The ratio for a black paint is not necessarily going to be the same ratio as the white or red etc.

And during the course of this thread... we have discussed primarily three brands of paint, Tremclad, Rustoleum and Brightside. Each of them being subtly different.

And even within the Tremclad and Rustoleu, there were normal versions, pro versions, farm versions etc. Again giving each a subtle difference from each other.

And so instead of trying to say that you need 30 mil of thinner to 70 mil of paint... we have to instead try to describe the wetness or consistency of the paint instead.

Another factor that enters into this 'wetness' or consistency is the mineral spirits themself. We already know that there is an evaporation time difference between regular mineral spirits and the low vapor mineral spirits. But to be honest with you... I suspect there are subtle differences between the different brands of mineral spirits. Logic says that a mineral spirit is a mineral spirit... is a mineral spirit.

But if we look at something like vodka or gin.. we can see that there are subtle differences between all the various brands of vodka or gin. So if the same applies to mineral spirits, this could explain some of the subtle differences in consistencies of the paints when mixing paint to mineral spirit ratios.

As an aside topic and something totally thinking outside the box.... I wonder how these paints would react if they were thinned with pure alchohol ? I know at the liquor store you can buy pure alcohol. Now wouldn't that be a real talking point if you rolled your paint job and it was cut with 30% alcohol from the liquor store.

Ok... so back to the topic at hand. The other factors that get into this ratio mixing question are the local temperatures that you are working in... ( more thinner for hot temps and less thinner in cooler temperatures )....

So this is why it has often been stressed throughout the discussion thread how it is really useful to do some experimenting and testing before laying any paint on your treasured ride.

Another way to look at this ratio/mixing thing is that it is almost like every paint job is truly a 'custom' paint job. In that the right ratio of paint to thinner for your car and color may be quite different from your neighbor down the street who is trying to do a different color on his ride.

So the practice work you do prior to applying the paint on the car will not only help you get your paint applying technique worked out... but as well it will help you determine the best paint to thinner mix that will work with the technique you subsequently yields the best result.

Dunno... but I hope that explains why the technique has not been able to reach the stage where exact measured amounts can be given with any expectation of consistent and repeatable results for everyone.

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