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Well I have been slowly but steadilly working on the Olds it has been kind of rough, time is short and the days are HOT. I have a couple of questions for the ones that have gone before me. The top surfaces were in sad shape no clear coat left, cracked paint surface rust and what look like scratches with surface rust in them. I sanded with a 1/3 sheet power finish sander with 220 grit my first thought was it probably be too aggressive but it looks silky smooth afterwards, only original primmer left, for the most part excepts where those scratches with surface rust in them were the surface actually is shinnier than before sanding, strange? My first question is how much filling will Rusto rusty metal primmer fill, I do NOT want to take the surface to bare metal and should the primmer be thinned like the paint. My second question is concering the sides. The very top of side that roll to the Horizontal plane are like the top no clear coat left, paint comes off easy now shows original primmer like the top of car but as you go down clear coat is intact and that stuff is Hard 220 grit + power sander just does dull it up. The hart of the question is for adhesion for new primmer and paint How do you know if is scuffed enough so the new stuff will be permanent. One more if you don't mind about Bondo Surface prep for application what grit and does it need to be bare metal. I have a couple dozen spots that need attention ranging from dents, a couple rust spots, Holes from bolts that held the side trim and a whole bunch of metal studs that I grinded off that held the same side trim on. Thanks



If it were me, to deal with those deep scratches and not strip to bare metal.... I'd make sure all the rust was out of the scratches - sand em', then use some light spot putty to deal with them. Fill them, blend them, then shoot the areas you puttied with a rattle can primer - scratch fill - and go a fair bit outside your repair area. Give a light sand to blend all that to your original primer.