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.... Why could I not use a foam roller and brush for this entire process - bare metal, then epoxy, then roll multiple coats of 2K, guide coat, block, then roll more 2K as needed ? The only issue I see is these primers eventually eat the foam brush/rollers so I may need to swap to a new one after 5-10 minutes (my 2K sets up in 10-15 anyway). I'm just thinking, since I'm blocking the car down as much as necessary, why could'nt/would'nt I roll the sucker.





There is no problem rolling your primer. Just treat it like the paint and thin it down a bit with mineral spirit so that it will self level out.

You should not have any problem using the 4" high density foam rollers. They will not disintegrate if they are the white high density foam type. You would have problems with the cheap foam rollers.... either the foam will start to disintegrate or the glue that holds the foam to the plastic core will separate. The other problem with the cheap foam rollers is that they have more air pockets in them... and hence they tend to leave behind more bubbles when being used.

As noted earlier in the thread... you should do all the surface preparation just as you would if you were going to spray it.

As for the metal surfaces, I don't think you have to resort to using an expoxy at all. The Tremblad/Rustoleum and Brightside are all quite capable of going over bare metal and bringing a halt to future rust.

Depending on how many types of surfaces you have on your vehicle ( bondo surfaces, bar metal surfaces and just scuffed paint surfaces... you may go to priming the whole vehicle just so that you have one uniform and consistent color laid down on the vehicle before you go to adding the paint layers.

Like the other case we had just discussed, that primer coat on the whole vehicle may save you seval paint coats later ( and hence save you some work in the long run ).

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