Quote:

---

In reading all these threads the recurring theme that keeps coming back to me is that although you don't HAVE to use primer to get a good bond it seems like even with as many as ten coats you'd still wind up with a more consistent result if you DID use it.

After all, with the varying levels of sanding/buffing needed one will invariably wind up cutting down more coats in one place versus fewer coats in other places, and this could lead to color variations if the starting point is splotchy and dramatically different underneath from area to area. The primer coat pretty much eliminates this hassle by quickly providing a nice even starting point.

---

Just to back that up, while rolling changes the application paradigm, it does not change the physical realities of painting:

All the surface prep work required for a good spray job are still required for a good roll job.

The surface must be smooth and free of contaminants and debris. Sanding marks, if not removed, will be visible in the final product. If the surface is not clean and smooth, it does not matter if the paint cost $7 or $700, is applied with a mop or a $1500 spray rig in a $150,000 booth, it will still look bad.

This ain't latex. It is "Real" car paint, albeit old-school.

Read the threads, follow the instructions, take your time and have fun. At the very least you will have a good story to tell. Whether that story has a one-foot paint job or a 40 foot paint job to show for it, it will still be a good story.