Okay, it only took me 3 days to read this entire thread from start to finish, making sure to absorb it all.

I have a project "free crx" that I'm toying with. I figured I'd try out this method, as a friend runs an autobody shop and I want to show him if it'll work. Anyway.

Just something that I've done before, while wetsanding. First of all, as mentioned before. While wetsanding, you should always only sand in one direction (back and forth is fine, but the lines should all be in the same direction). No circular motion.

I prefer to use a rubber block for large flat surfaces and my hands for around edges (its too easy to blow through the paint on hard edges with a block).

I pre-wet the surface with a clean rag, then use my hand, by continually dunking it in the water. After that, I just keep dunking the paper/block into the bucket of water (with a lil soap).

The one trick I've learned (taught actually) is to use one of the rubber bondo blades (rectangular piece with a "knife edge") to clear the area I just wetsanded, to check progress. This essentially "squeegies" the area of water and by looking at it at an angle, I can see how much "peel" there is to it.

I'm also used to using either 2000 or a little higher for a final wetsand. It leaves less microscratches in the paint, but as was already stated, you can't remove the "haze" without a good buffing.

I will post any progress I make, once it stops raining in the northeast. If its anything like last year, I won't see the sun until June.