Looks like you are on the right track,

From the picture showing the area just above the side window, it looks like finger marks in the sanding pattern.

MAKE SURE YOU USE A SANDING BLOCK! Use the rubber sanding blocks that can be found at Wal Mart. You can usually find pre cut paper in 1000 and 2000 grit there too. I usually pick mine up in the spray paint section. I have at 2 different Wal Marts.

For the areas that are too round to use the sanding block, use a sponge. I use some small sponges that I buy at the auto paint store. They are about the same size as a sanding block but only a 1/4 “ thick. I fold the paper over the ends then fold it in half. That way it holds my paper and I can bend it around odd shapes. The whole reason for this is the flatter you can get the wet sanding the better it will come out. If you have groves from your fingers on the back side of the paper, it will show up as ripples even after you buff it.

I would be using a softer grit of paper. I prefer to use 1000, then 2000 then buff. For yours since you still have more coats of paint to go, I would use the 600, then re-coat it, then go to the 1000, and finally 2000 and buff.

Your goal at this point is to get the orange peel out of it. That can only be done by water sanding and taking your time. You want it to come out dull with no shiny spots. Each little shiny spot is a low spot. Once those low spots are out, you will re-apply your paint and it will be MUCH flatter, and easier to get a good shine when buffing.

I never use anything rougher than 1000 on a final coat. It would be too hard to buff it out. I try to use the 2000 for all of it, but if the orange peel is too bad, I use 1000 then the 2000 then buff.

For those that don’t thing they can get the full shine back after wet sanding, they probably used paper that was too rough.

Keep in mind I spray automotive finishes on my cars, but the enamel you guys are using will shine as good as any enamel if it is buffed properly. It took me a while to learn to use a buffer correctly, but now my results are fantastic! I use McGuire’s Diamond Cut to get the water sanding paper marks out, and then follow up with some of the hand glaze.

Polishing with a buffer is the same as sanding; you are just using liquid for the abrasive. Compounds come in different “Grits” as well. I always use foam pads on my buffer. I also use a different pad for different compounds. I NEVER reuse a pad with a different “Grit” compound.

OH and use Straight strokes not circles while wet sanding.

-Dave