Go gittum John!

Still looks better than a Tesla!

I have two, and other than the lifter bores on one were not finish reamed, no issues....

Got the springs all swapped. 8 springs checked about .025" less coil bind than the others. They all went on the intakes. Checked all the lifter wheel play with a slick homemade tool from Hardcore. Everything cleaned. Cam is in at 108 C/L, .050"-.060" to coil bind. Rocker ratio is little over 1.72. Lift came out to .837/.810 w/o lash on checking springs. Piston to valve .075 int, .110. Borrowed a very nice LSM on the motor spring tester. Found the #8 exhaust spring about 35 lbs low. I have spares so that'll get swapped. Today I'll get the windage screen fabbed up, install the pan and steering linkage, radiator, alternator, add oil, trans fluid, and coolant. Still waiting on the lifter. It can be installed thru the distributor hole. So if It takes to much longer the valley inspection cover, intake, and carbs will all get installed. Wesnesdays weather looks good. Going to try and test before next weekends first race.
Doug

Instead of making a new thread every time I thought I would just make this one just in case anyone is looking to take the plunge.

I bit the bullet and purchased the Tanks Inc kit because I was tired of killing batteries waiting to suck fuel from the fuel tank. Last October I went to take her for a drive and the carbs were dry, the fuel filter was dry and I was scratching my head. Lo and behold through some sleuthing I discovered my original fuel line decided to make some ventilation holes. 55 year old lines finally met their death. I was going to patch it...then i thought...order new stainless lines but I wanted to make the slow shift to EFI and decided to go with 3/8" stainless lines over the factory 5/16" lines. I bit the bullet and talked to the guys at Tanks Inc on recommendation of AlexP(plus he is my cousin) as he used them for his Roadrunner GenIII setup. I ordered up two 3/8" lines from InlineTube with the chassis clips to go along. EFI Tank from TanksInc, reed style float to feed the signal to the factory dash gauge which hasn't seen any use since it was restored ten years ago and the fuel sending unit transmitter was Chinese trash. Always guessing how much fuel I have in my tank. I had retrofitted an Autometer float to a factory sending unit and added ANOTHER gauge to my setup which was annoying, now that gets removed. I purchased the 255LPH sending unit from T.I. and the carb kit install. A few AN fittings and a fuel pressure regulator to kick the 100psi down to 7psi. No instructions in the box so thats going to be interesting, hopefully their website has something. It really is a nice tank, I am going to use my original straps with some rubber padded strips to prevent metal to metal rattling on the mounts. The original tank weighs 16.5 lbs and the new tank weighs 20.5 pounds.

First question is what to do with the tank vent. The tank itself has one, they supply a Y fitting to connect to the vent on the fuel pump plate which. They also supply a ball valve aerator (venterator?!?!) which says it should be mounted at the highest point vertically. Since I have the Fuel fill tube vent on the 69 Charger feeding off a port on the fill neck, do I have to install any of the aforementioned since the exit of the fill tube vent releases vapor through the floor?

Next question is: Where is a smart place to connect the fuel regulator. I see people insytalling it in the engine bay on the radiator support and I can't help but think that if a hose bursts that pressurized fuel is a great way to ignite on the exhaust. I was thinking to mount it on the subframe near the fuel line, with a debris cage around it just in case a fuel line lets go, it will be spraying on the ground below. I don't like running braided hoses for fuel line nor rubber hoses for more than 6 inches. The previous Edelbrock fuel pump was hard lined to my CH28 with an inline psi gauge. I already installed the block off plate from Summit, where even though it was stated to fit RB blocks, it wasn't. Had to take a grinder to the edge facing #2 cylinder

Few pics of the tank as well as the vent plate from above

Originally a 4 wheel drum or disc drum?

If Originally a disc drum setup, you're leaving alot of rear braking power unused.

If drum drum, you're good.

Doug
Its all about your budget .
Heres mine . 2015 Holden Colorado, open trailer , tent . We sometimes dont get power in the pits so I carry a small genny . Spares are hoses , set of plugs ,fuel pump/filters, waterpump , alternator , fanbelts a little oil , front wheel bearings , carb bits, dissy cap/ rotor/leads/msd box & coil , intake/exhaust manifold gaskets , . I often carry a spare set of axles with bearings plus seals and currently a spare pair of radial slicks on wheels .
Running a BB mopar you are not going to find any parts at or near a track . There is only 1 other guy i know regularly racing a bbm in competition and im the only B body .
How did Kermit put it ? "Its tough being green "
But wouldnt change a thing !

Tex

PS buying a 12v esky/fridge was one of the best things i did .

Could be somewhere in Iowa now

As long as each bolt has the coated sealing washer under it.

Head style makes no difference

I haven't seen it in over 35 years of racing but have heard stories .. I have had the opposite happen on a guaranteed pay out .. I was running 11.50 Index at a Labor Day weekend Index race at Numidia Dragway in Pa. a few years ago I got down to 4 cars and it rained out , Thinking I would get a hundred or two .. they paid out the full amount split between the four cars left ! $950 each ...at another Pa track a few years ago I Won the Trophy Class at a Mopar race resulting in Winning a Trophy , the track operator came up and gave me some cash also and said Thanks for coming !

I plan to be at 131 all of Memorial Day weekend. Probably be my first outing.
Gonna go to 42 first week of August for Mopar event( be my first time there)
Norwalk in Sept for Mopar deal
London, Ky early Oct for Mopar event, and probably several regular bracket race deals as time/ work allows.
Yea, would love to see that deal of yours go down the track. Bad hombre.

New Comp 26986-16 valve springs with 787-16 steel retainers. These were ordered for a project and then not used. These are fairly short beehive springs which work well on SB Mopar heads or some other brands such as SB Chevy. They are usually too short for big block heads. These are typically used with a flat tappet cam. The springs are 125 @ 1.75 installed height and 280 at 1.200 open height. Good for 0.500 to 0.550 lift. The retainers are matching 787-16, steel, 7 degree.
Comp Cams pricing is $340 for the set of springs and retainers, I'm asking $200 plus $10 for shipping. PM me on the board, PayPal preferred for payment. Thanks.

Standard lifters should get .030-.040” preload.