Instead of making a new thread every time I thought I would just make this one just in case anyone is looking to take the plunge.

I bit the bullet and purchased the Tanks Inc kit because I was tired of killing batteries waiting to suck fuel from the fuel tank. Last October I went to take her for a drive and the carbs were dry, the fuel filter was dry and I was scratching my head. Lo and behold through some sleuthing I discovered my original fuel line decided to make some ventilation holes. 55 year old lines finally met their death. I was going to patch it...then i thought...order new stainless lines but I wanted to make the slow shift to EFI and decided to go with 3/8" stainless lines over the factory 5/16" lines. I bit the bullet and talked to the guys at Tanks Inc on recommendation of AlexP(plus he is my cousin) as he used them for his Roadrunner GenIII setup. I ordered up two 3/8" lines from InlineTube with the chassis clips to go along. EFI Tank from TanksInc, reed style float to feed the signal to the factory dash gauge which hasn't seen any use since it was restored ten years ago and the fuel sending unit transmitter was Chinese trash. Always guessing how much fuel I have in my tank. I had retrofitted an Autometer float to a factory sending unit and added ANOTHER gauge to my setup which was annoying, now that gets removed. I purchased the 255LPH sending unit from T.I. and the carb kit install. A few AN fittings and a fuel pressure regulator to kick the 100psi down to 7psi. No instructions in the box so thats going to be interesting, hopefully their website has something. It really is a nice tank, I am going to use my original straps with some rubber padded strips to prevent metal to metal rattling on the mounts. The original tank weighs 16.5 lbs and the new tank weighs 20.5 pounds.

First question is what to do with the tank vent. The tank itself has one, they supply a Y fitting to connect to the vent on the fuel pump plate which. They also supply a ball valve aerator (venterator?!?!) which says it should be mounted at the highest point vertically. Since I have the Fuel fill tube vent on the 69 Charger feeding off a port on the fill neck, do I have to install any of the aforementioned since the exit of the fill tube vent releases vapor through the floor?

Next question is: Where is a smart place to connect the fuel regulator. I see people insytalling it in the engine bay on the radiator support and I can't help but think that if a hose bursts that pressurized fuel is a great way to ignite on the exhaust. I was thinking to mount it on the subframe near the fuel line, with a debris cage around it just in case a fuel line lets go, it will be spraying on the ground below. I don't like running braided hoses for fuel line nor rubber hoses for more than 6 inches. The previous Edelbrock fuel pump was hard lined to my CH28 with an inline psi gauge. I already installed the block off plate from Summit, where even though it was stated to fit RB blocks, it wasn't. Had to take a grinder to the edge facing #2 cylinder

Few pics of the tank as well as the vent plate from above

No mention of what EFI system you're using, that will play into the rest of the components.

I'm installing a Holley Terminator Stealth - not that I care about the "Stealth" part !! I'm using this fuel log with integral pre-set regulator. So no worries about where to mount it.

Right now it's going to be feeding my CH28 Dual Quads until i can scratch up the coin and migrate to the Edelbrock Pro Flo 4 XT. I love the aggressive look of the runners and it'll match with the rest of my top end since I'm running performer RPM heads.

For the tank vent it just needs to be higher than the tank. I run a small K&N air cleaner on the end of mine, and it is mounted in the rear axle hump, Mine is an Ebody. What size hoses are you using for feed and return lines? I run a 3/8 feed and 5/8 return, no starvation issues so far.

This is my system.

Converting to EFI?

The setup for my 51 Plymouth's flathead

5/8” return ?!?!

I asked TanksInc and they told me to run dual 3/8" supply and return. I'm wrestling the fuel line out right now because i have welded subframe connectors. Good idea on the K&N filter. I could probably feed something similar through a PCV filter in the same area. I don't want to run it into the trunk because vapors travel

What you need is enough of a return line size to not show any pressure on the return line. If there is any pressure there it messes up the pressure at the injector and throws off the calculations. So yeah, 5/8" will do the trick, but is most likely way over kill. Generally, same size as the supply or one size smaller is more than enough. This also assumes consistent sizing throughout the return line and no kinks or real sharp bends.

When I converted my Diplomat over to EFI I used the original supply line, 5/16", as the EFI return and bent up a new supply line, 3/8". If there is a premade OEM supply line available you can use that as the return.

I added a nipple to my stock sending unit to tie into the new return setup

For the vent, I placed mine in the highest point in the filler neck with a vented cap.

If you are making over 600hp that well inside the tank will get sucked dry, speaking from a hard lesson in life experience .

Yeah i just purchased two stainless ⅜" lines..pre-bent to replace the original factory lines.

I saw the other post on here with the 3/8” hole that was .050" off the bottom of the tank and the attempt to make that orifice larger to show more fuel to fill the well and avoid fuel starvation. I'm still around 490ish to 500hp. I think I'm safe for now with the 440. If i build my 505 then surgery will have to be performed on that tank but cross that bridge when that day arrives. I appreciate the heads up on it though 👍🏽

Can i ask where you placed the fuel pressure regulator?

You are going to need to think carefully about the fuel regulator since you are planning to run carbs and then switch to EFI. You can buy a fuel regulator which comes with two springs so you can switch it from being a low pressure regulator to a high pressure regulator but they are expensive. You can also just buy a carb regulator now and then replace it with an EFI regulator. Same thing with your fuel lines. For EFI you only need a single 5/16 pressure line. Put the regulator and the pump inside the tank and then run a single pressure line up to the throttle bodies. But that doesn't work so well for carbs. With carbs you typically want the regulator up front and fairly large lines since the fuel only has low pressure on it.

In short, EFI is plumbed differently than a carb so you either need to do the job twice, or you need to accept some compromises.

i have always used the same size supply and return lines as recommended by most fuel system manufacturers. On the pump / regulator issue, I'd be a bit concerned about throttling a high PSI pump down that far. I'd suggest a lower pressure version of the same pump and swap it out when you make the switch

I already purchased the TanksInc carb regulator. It's external. I didn't want to mix and match and find out one product from one company won't be compatible with another. This is their system fully so if something needs to be diagnosed it's a phone call and and an answer instead of "well you need to contact xxxxx"...I live in Europe, i waited 3 months for these parts to arrive. I am a turnkey guy. I just wanna drive my car with reliability not tinker with it on the side of the road 😂.

Below is the regulator. When i make the switch to multi port injection, all i have to do is swap out the regulator, feed the rails and put the carb regulator on eBay and make 25% of my money back

I've gone the other way on a couple of late 80s trucks with that horrendous TBI system those had, went from that to Edelbrock 4 barrel carb and,4 pin Mopar ignition box

Yes, I mounted it on the firewall, passenger side by the heater fan. I placed it after the fuel rails so the injectors get all the fuel from the pump, I run 50 psi. My 440 has 500 hp, and starvation has never been an issue.

I'm mostly looking for drivability. I have spent enough coin doing the dual 500 Edelbrock and CH28. I'm happy with it for now as a system which is why i just realized to deliver pressurized fuel to the engine bay. I have killed 2 batteries and a fuel pump trying to get her started. Who knows if or when the ProFlo will go on.

How can i make these flares for the fuel lines? I think i need to edit my fuel line because I'm running subframe connectors and i need to make a splice since i can't eat the pipe into place like factory. My flaring tool is for 37° conical breaker lives and i think doing that for fuel line with a rubber hose offer the connection is going to cut the line. I'm looking to make this type of connection below.

I already cut a 1/2" hole into my subframe and placed a pipe in to weld up and strengthen the passage. Also below