05/09/24 05:41 PM
I used pushrod oiling in my BMP aluminum block. It was a wedge block with B1 heads and T&D rockers, so the top end details are different, but the block details should apply. I went to a lot of trouble measuring things before building it, and it just worked fine with no mods.
Maybe this picture from my notes will be of use to you. A pic is worth a thousand words. The cam base circle diameter can be different. Mine was 0.90" dia and my cam lobes were 0.470" lift.
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05/09/24 05:16 PM
I got the opposite; I have one that locks up when bolted on...Like no clearance at all. Luckily, I have a surface grinder at work. A surface grinder is the perfect machine to do the job! I found my notes from 2008: I disassembled, measured, and checked out my new oil pump for the motor. It is a Mopar Performance high volume pump, P4286590. It appears to be a Melling high volume part since cast into the body is "63 HV". Here are the details: Cover flatness: Checked with precision parallel bar, none (spec <0.0015) Rotor to housing face (flat) clearance: 0.002 (spec <0.004)Outer rotor to housing bore: 0.008 (spec <0.014) Rotor tip clearance: about 0.0035 (spec <0.010) Inner rotor thickness (height) 1.1873 (spec ?, std is 0.943 min) Outer rotor thickness (height) 1.1873 Outer rotor diameter: 2.473 (spec >2.469) Spring free length: 2.245 (spec 2.25) Spring diameter: 0.473
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05/09/24 05:14 PM
Replacing an ev battery is a hard thing to pin down. You could easily live with a [censored] battery if you drive ten miles a day to work. If you drive 50 it could get bothersome to have to make sure you get out and hook it up or have to worry about the range crapping out on the way back home. So you’ll definitely get ev evangelists telling you they “haven’t replaced the battery after 15 years” when that’s not a relevant take.
I expect to be able to leave on a moments notice for an unexpected 500 miles trip. You simply cannot make a trip like that in a ev without prior planning and/or an extended stay along the way. When my gas powered vehicles are taken from me forcibly, I will no longer be able to move about freely.
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05/09/24 04:53 PM
Sold both cars to good homes...
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05/09/24 04:36 PM
X2.
Otherwise, you'd have to hold the shifter and keep the forks against the synchronizer
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05/09/24 04:33 PM
Nice project. My first new vehicle was a '74 PW with a '79 being my last new truck before getting married. Really would like to have another one. Good luck with it.
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05/09/24 04:24 PM
I got the opposite; I have one that locks up when bolted on...Like no clearance at all. Luckily, I have a surface grinder at work.
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05/09/24 04:17 PM
If Brodix made the exact same heads to bolt onto a big block Chrysler block people would be afraid to run them because “they would lose torque.”
In fact they would come on here and probably get advised not to use them too.
B/RB std port heads were designed in 1956 and 1957 for 350 and 361 cubic inch engines, and designed to make good part throttle torque and response for use in station wagons and big cars. Chrysler engineers designed a port for performance use at 400+ cubic inches. Its the Max Wedge port, and again, most people seem to be afraid its “too big.”
Theres also the 426 Hemi port, thats a pretty good one I’ve heard.
There is a pretty big difference between most of the engines designed in the mid/late 50s, like the standard B/RB, Buick Olds Pontiac, Ford FE, etc and those designed in the 60s. Hemi in 64, Big Block Chevy in 63/64, Ford 335 and 385, etc. The later stuff all has much better heads and stronger blocks. Agreed, we can see this by how few people use the excellent B1 head series, instead they try to crutch the Indy stuff along well past it's performance window. S/F....Ken M
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05/09/24 04:09 PM
I'm surprised the leak at the seal shows up just priming the motor. The only oil that gets to that area would be dripping down from the lifter area or coming out the rear main bearing. With no crankcase pressure to blow the oil out the chance of that leaking would be minimal. So with a static leak it would almost seem like you forgot to install the seal altogether. Seems odd to me as well...I'd bet Cam plug before a static rear main leak
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05/09/24 04:09 PM
Bigdad, I have an old high school buddy that has gotten into E Bike conversions. i can ask him some questions if you want. He told me it's much cheaper to convert a bike, than buying one.
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05/09/24 03:52 PM
I have no clue....whats that go-cart worth? Couple hundred?
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05/09/24 03:51 PM
supposed to be redone in couple weeks when it warms up enough for asphalt plant .
she has worked there for some time , but, to me it looks like she now has a vested interest in whats going on
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05/09/24 03:47 PM
Formula S . Now you have me wondering . I ran with the Promax plates jetted like i said in my post . What would the symptoms be if they are not covering properly like you said . i did not use the thin plates under them. I am in the process of changing engines now to a 340 stroked to 418 . I planned to go to a 3310 750 holley on an LD340 manifold. I have felt like the 6 pack would be hard to tune with the big motor, and have intended to sell it . I may consider running it though, and some insight on what I should be doing with the jetting. Ron did you get it in and running? Wondering how you made out, and what you ended up with? 3310? Jetted Six Pack? Oh if nothing else the old thread gets a bump
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05/09/24 03:38 PM
One of my friends ran into rear main seal problems last year. Had 2 new ones leak. He said the black fel pro are made in china now? I decided to use the tan colored Fluoroelastomer in mine this year to be safe.
Doesn't leak. (thank god)
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05/09/24 03:33 PM
shift keys act as detents to hold slider in neutral position, then when you start to shift, they press against the brass rings to engage the cone of the syncro, the brass ring locks onto the cone, this speeds up or slows down the gear you will shift into, so you do not grind the syncro teeth. I believe they also hold the slider in the gear selected ?
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05/09/24 03:19 PM
Steal Fergens cart... Heck, find and old riding lawn mower, remove the deck, and drive it around. On second thought, leave the deck, and make money cutting grass in the pits for people...
Who is running the show down thee now? Glenn and Cherrie They have been instating changes , I thought Cherrie had been running it for years? The program runs fine, its just that the track needs MAJOR updates.
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05/09/24 03:18 PM
That car would part out for that money and maybe more
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05/09/24 03:17 PM
I sold my Superbird in 1987. Sold it for $14K and it was freshly restored. I made $10K on it because I bought it dirt cheap and I did everything except spray the paint and build the automatic transmission. Now, you couldn't buy a rusty fender tag from a Superbird for that....lol. I'm glad I can say I owned a real wing car in my lifetime, but I have no desire to ever own another one. I sold it to make the down payment when I built my house, so....no regrets! Agreed, Ive owned both a Daytona, and a Bird. Although both cars were bought and sold as projects many many years ago. I can honestly say the winged cars have never really popped my buttons so to speak. For myself , I would much prefer a convertible. And Having owned 4 or 5 of them over the years, I just might someday add another one to the stable. Maybe. maybe not
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05/09/24 03:06 PM
Great "feel good" story. Thanks for posting!
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05/09/24 03:01 PM
15,000 miles a year is typically considered 'average'. And that figure is used for vehicle evaluations, too. More than that gets a deduction in value, less gets an addition. Again that's typically, because there are always exceptions. www.kbb.com/car-advice/average-miles-driven-per-yearAnother meaningful statistic in this is that the 'average' age of cars on the road today is in excess of 12 years. And growing. It is also estimated that 23% of those cars are at least 20 years old. Has anyone seen any evidence that EVs can be economically kept on the road for that length of time? I haven't. The most common estimated life expectancy of today's EV batteries is between 8 and 12 years depending on a number of factors. The most optimistic estimates put life spans at 10+ years. But they are all only estimates. I would be very interested in some research into the real world life expectancy of today's EVs given the cost of their batteries and the labor to replace them. That is, IF the bateries are even available by the time the vehicle needs the first one replaced, let alone the second. www.dynamicmanufacturinginc.com/unv...ar-batteries-how-long-do-they-truly-lasthttps://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/advice/how-long-do-ev-batteries-last
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05/09/24 02:42 PM
Steal Fergens cart... Heck, find and old riding lawn mower, remove the deck, and drive it around. On second thought, leave the deck, and make money cutting grass in the pits for people...
Who is running the show down thee now? Glenn and Cherrie They have been instating changes ,
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05/09/24 02:40 PM
I sold my Superbird in 1987. Sold it for $14K and it was freshly restored. I made $10K on it because I bought it dirt cheap and I did everything except spray the paint and build the automatic transmission. Now, you couldn't buy a rusty fender tag from a Superbird for that....lol. I'm glad I can say I owned a real wing car in my lifetime, but I have no desire to ever own another one. I sold it to make the down payment when I built my house, so....no regrets! After you own a rare Valiant wagon , nothing compares
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05/09/24 02:38 PM
I don't have any insight to your problem but I wish you could get his 5 spd transmission! It's real easy. Get ahold of Yellowstone Garage. He decided to invest in the project and started backdooring units totally ignoring anyone on the list Passon had for years.
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05/09/24 02:13 PM
Hemi Denny! HDK Suspension. The pieces you receive are a work of art. Plus, you couldn't find a nicer guy to deal with than Denny. http://www.moparsuspension.com/ This suspension changes over to Mustang 2 components and eliminates the torsion bars if I'm reading it right ...
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05/09/24 02:08 PM
I’m looking at a 5 speed conversion. This is another example of why I’m going to stay away from Passon. I took all the issues this vendor has had and compared with others and it’s just not worth the aggravation of dealing with them. He may be a nice guy but he has too many minuses against him. Dealt with Brewers in the past and they’ve always had their act together.
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