Quote: Hey Exit I still wander about Penetrol. I know that you did try in a test area, and never dried completely. But the same happened with all your test areas, except the last one. I still think that could be a good idea. Do you think that the paint did not dry because the Penetrol? or was because the application. Have anybody else had any experience with Penetrol?
The test area I tried with penetrol, I laid it on really thick, and the paint mixture itself was really thick, so that's why it didn't dry.
The penetrol is more of a light oil consistency where the mineral spirits are like water. I think if you used penetrol and could thin it to the point where goes on smooth but does not run, it should work. But I've said it before, Im not sure of the real advantage of using penetrol. Adhesion and leveling is not an issue. When done correctly, the mineral spirits adhere and lay as flat as can be once dry. I tried to scratch an area of my dart this morning (on the trunk lid behind where the big trim panel will go) and it's rock hard after 10 hours overnight.
The possible benefit I can think of is that you can put more paint on, and because it levels out, you can get away with heavier coats. But then i'd be worried about that coat curing properly if it's that thick.
I have a barely used can of penetrol. I think I'll try it out on my engine bay and see if I can get it to look good and be tough after 2 or 3 coats..
The guy who originally used it on a VW (if I remember right) has not been heard from since, but he said he used only 3 coats.
As for sanding small areas, just dont spend much time sanding them especially edges because the paint will come off quick. for my door jambs, I probably wont spend much time wetsanding at all since that's not a critical area to look perfectly glossy and smooth.
