Quote: Hi! I hope you don’t mind a “bug guy” joining the party. I wanted to applaud you guys for what you’re doing. You’ve got poor, garage-less Joes like me in three countries cheering! Wow…an alternative to auto painting that doesn’t require hundreds or even thousands of dollars!
There are techniques in coach painting that we may be able to pick up on. The only problem is, the paint that’s used is only available in one country (gee that sounds familiar!) I do see similarities in coach paint to what all of you are working with. What intrigues me is that to get a gloss, coach painters use a certain type of varnish. That may be the key to our common quest. Like EXIT1965, I'm trying to find a clear paint that's brushable and compatible with Rustoleum. The research and experimentation goes on. Good luck amigos!
Welcome Bugr.
I called Rustoleum yesterday and asked about the clear enamel.. they told me that the clear, cheap rustoleum enamel was not available in anything but spray. They told me a part # of some industrial clear coat, but I couldn't find it online and I think it wouldn't be available in California anyways.
At walmart yesterday I read label on the can of aeresol clearcoat and it says apply 2 thin coats. I really don't think I'll mess with a clear coat, I can't imagine doing an entire car with spray cans.. twice.. and even then not knowing what will become of the clearcoat in months or years. So as of now I think I'll just go with the paint and turtle wax. for the almond color im interested in it should be OK with the current amount of gloss (which isn't a whole lot).
I am going to do some more experimenting with the professional line also. For the guy above who asked about the professional line, you can buy smaller containers of it at Lowes, and according to Rustoleum, it dries faster. It does seem to do that in my experience. Not sure what the other benefits of it are. Anyways back to experimenting -- the last time I tried a test area with professional, the area was in terrible shape (very uneven) so it was hard to compare it against the standard rustoleum area which looked good and had a nice surface. Soo I've decided to flatten out a nice area on my test door (here is a pic of a fresh skim coat of bondo/fiberglass resin that should do the job), and take a shot with the professional stuff again. If it works out well there should be a very nice smooth reflection on the side of the door like there was on the first area I did with standard rustoleum. I like the fact that the professional seems to dry to a harder finish faster so it's worth a shot.
for anyone still wondering, I can still scrape the standard rustoleum with my nail if I catch it just right. I know the surface wasn't prepped as well, but my nail still cuts all the way to the surface which to me says it isn't hard yet, and it's been damn near a month. Anyways, I don't want to beat a dead horse.
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