also i just wanted to mention that durring the whole process you may think that it looks like crap, after a coat you may see a little peel, lines ect...but wetsanding eliminates all of this. after you wetsand, take a rag soaked with meneral spirits and whipe the whole car down, when it's wet it gives you an idea of what it will look like polished. before i paint another coat after wetsanding i whipe down the car with mineral spirits, that super cleans the surface from any residue, also i use a tack cloth to whipe down the area to get rid of any dust. another tip when wetsanding, i would say the stages for wetsanding are: 2 coats, wetsand with 600-800 grit lightly, then 2 more coats, and wetsand with 800grit, then 2 coats and final wetsand with 1000grit, then buff and polish. when i wetsand i have a spray bottle with straight water and constantly spray the surface, also i have a bucket of water that i often rinse the sand paper in, and yet another bucket of water with a shammy that i use to whipe down the area i was just sanding. it's alot eaiser to clean off the wetsanding residue while it's wet. also when your wetsanding, when you first start off you feel that the paper just "glides" over the surface, as you continue to wetsand you feel the sandpaper "bite" more, and the water starts to be the color of the paint your using. wetsand gently, i just use a peice of sandpaper about 6"x6" and do it by hand. when i used a block i found the sand paper gets plugged, so do it by hand or when the sandpaper gets plugged up you scratch the paint. i find one peice of sand paper does about 1/4 of the car, or about 1 sheet does the car. as you go to the finer paper, expect to use double the amount of sandpaper. one last thing before i wrap up this book, be very light with sanding on contours of the body lines of the car, and stay away from the contours until your just about done, otherwise you'll go right thru the paint on the contours. that about covers it, good luck