I can understand all the concerns about cutting and waxing the paint so soon after it is done, but i can say from my expirence that this paint does not continue to vent/gas for more than the first 4hrs of drying time. If it was, then re-coating after 8-10hours would really cause some problems. Funny thing is that nobody has ever complained that when re-coating that there is a reaction or issues with the relationship between the two layers of paint. With single stage acrylic enamel there are alot of steps and timing is critical as someone mentioned, and they are absoultly right. with single stage, after applying the primer sealer application (depending on the brand; there are slight differences) you have a window of 30 mins to go to color top-coat, or 15 days!!! the reason for this is to allow each layer to gas or "flash", and if you apply another layer outside the window then the two layers interact with eachother and cause bubbles, ect, by making the underlying layer (which has vented off partially) to basically get "wet" again and the two layers dry at different rates, causing a big mess. this is also true of all successive layers of paint, they must be applied within a window, and the correct reducer or ammount of hardener must be used to thin the paint for spraying, and provide the correct rate at which the paint layers flash, too much hardner/reducer for the conditions (relative to temperature and humidity) and the paint can over-dry, and start to crack or seperate from the underlying layers, too little and it could never fully dry. Auto paints should never fully dry in the sence that it is completely dry, otherwise it would loose adhesion from being heated and cooled in the sun, and a certian amount of flexability has to be maintained or any movement of the pannels would cause the paint to crack. What i'm trying to say is that people are trying to compare the process of regular automotive paint (be it single stage or BC/CC) with this method, and i can tell you it's not comparing apples to apples. this "rust" paint is actually formulated to remain "soft"; that is part of it rust inhibiting abilities, but by applying thin coats, and using a much higher concentration of mineral spirits to thin the paint solves that issue. it is the mineral spirits that flashes out of the paint, and to a degree the paint flashes itself too, but the properties of the paint makes it probabally one of the eaisest paints to work with in my opinion hands down. I can honestly say that this paint is not prone to alot of the issues that auto paint is prone too, if it were, then people would have issues like i mentioned earlier with re-coat windows. i've cut and buffed including waxing the paint 2 days after painting the last coat, and i have absoultly no issues with the paint, acheving gloss, or durability, that has to be a testament to reinforce the point i'm trying to get accross, we have to stop comparing the regular auto paint process with this method, because the theories and process steps, and formulations are not the same. the rules that apply to regular auto paint somewhat apply, but the processes vary too greatly to compare them.