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Welcome back Chuck It is good to have someone cautioning others, however the technique is evolving and there are already people who have posted good success stories with pics to back them up. I would think that if something did go wrong after a few months or weeks, they wouldn't mind coming back and updating us, saving us all from this most horrendous practice of painting cars with rustoleum.

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As horribly as Rustoleum messed up your car, do you have any pics of it to share? Or pics of these yellowing door jambs?

Also, you keep saying that you can't put regular car paint over rustoleum, but 69charger has said that he has first hand experience painting over it (OK, Tremclad) with no problems. Is your experience first hand or hearsay?




Chuck's complaints were still niggling in the back of my head this morning, so I jumped back to his posts from March (there were even pictures!). I think the biggest clue is that he used Sherwin-Williams paint rather than Rustoleum and thinned at 10:1 rather than closer to 2:1 or 3:1 which seem to be common values for "Rustoleum Professional" or "Stops Rust".

Here's what Chuck wrote back in March:

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Ok, now a few insights:

1.) The paint suggested very early in these postings was called "acrylic/enamel paint"...this is not exactly what you're looking for. The proper paint type is "aklyd enamel". The "acrylic/enamel" is water based, and that isn't what you want (read about "acrylic/enamel" on this web page). As a matter of fact, you do not necessarily have to buy "rustoleum". I bought mine from the local "Do-It-Center" and it is the house brand made by Sherwin Williams...worked fine. The easiest way to tell if you have the right thing is to look at the directions and see what "clean-up" instructions are...if it says "clean with Mineral Spirits", than you have the right stuff. Many people make compatible brands.

2.) It may also say in the instructions that you do not have to thin...in this case, you have to thin. My ratio was 10:1, worked great. It will bubble and look "orange peely" at first, but relax, the paint self-levels as it drys.

3.) At first, I understood that we could use a $20 orbital buffer/polisher like you buy a Wal-Mart, etc...Although it seems to have worked for others, it did NOT work for me. It would not eliminate the scratches from the final 1500 grit wetsanding. Luckily, I had a 7" ELECTRONIC POLISHER/SANDER just like the one on this web page. It worked wonders!!

Will write more later if I think of anything. If you have questions about my procedure, I will do my best to help...thanks guys



George