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I used Rust-bullet on my car on the panels that had surface rust. Apply it as directed, maybe with an extra coat, using a roller, then sand to give it a little tooth, and smooth it out, for the other paint to bite into and go. Its in one of the adds at the top and/or bottom of this page. I like it better than POR-15 cuz I can paint over it easier and doesn't have all the other steps that you need to do before applying. Plus I couldn't get the POR-15 to look right, I'm not sure why.

Gerbs





I had to turn off my add blocker and I found an add for RestoRick selling Zero Rust. It doesn't sound like the same stuff you used. I've heard that POR-15 is used best on the frame.


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• The full cure can take from only a couple days to a couple weeks depending how wet the coats are applied. It will get tougher and harder with time.

• Zero Rust accepts recoating easily and only needs a light scuff, if after a week. Zero Rust can be topcoated with urethane ONLY with extreme caution as lifting or wrinkling can occur because of their strong solvents. The film must be fully cured and hard enough to not be penetrated with a fingernail before recoating. Apply a light first coat to prevent shocking the finish. Allow this first coat to dry to the touch and then proceed with a normal coat.

• Zero Rust is NOT recommended for use on exterior areas where a finish system will be used. It is best suited to coating underbody areas, inside body panels, floor pans, etc.