Chuck, I'm not trying to be an jerk, either.

Paint is 93.6% (scientifically measured) prep. The rest, on a non-clearcoat job, is the materials and a willingness to work. Frankly, I bet the "rust stopping" part of the paint's claim is just hot air, but over a nicely prepped body, it's just enamel paint.

Now, I haven't used this rustoleum enamel and it might just be crap paint, but I have some glass smooth and polished bookcases here that I painted with plain-jane house paint which was wet-sanded and then polished, and they look pretty nice.

I think if you could put the car in the oven for an hour at 200 when you were done, you'd find the paint very hard. The single most durable paint I've ever run across was brushed-on oven-baked enamel on an old motorcycle frame. That stuff did NOT come off except in a sandblaster, and then VERY reluctantly. I wonder if a tent of black plastic on a hot summer day would help to really set the paint...

The guys in the thread you point to actually kinda sound like idiots. They heard roller and simply made assumptions that have nothing to do with the way this system actually works. It doesn't really matter how you apply the paint as long as you're willing to work to make it smooth afterwards (this assumes that you don't try to put it on an inch thick, etc.).

The point I was originally trying to make was that the paint will harden eventually, which I thought you had said your paint guy had said would never happen. It just might take a long while.