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Just want to put in a thank you to 69charger for this amazing thread. There are alot of haters around here who think this idea is garbage but ive read from page 1 and its amazing. I came over from 240sxforums.com and have subscribed just to say this. I will be trying this out and spreading this idea to the 240sx community, giving obvious credit where it is deserved. Charger, you should make a website (ill be your webmaaster). Call it something like poboyspaint.com and get some banners, make 5 cents a click and youll be rich by next sunday lol..



shhhhhh, or someone will steal the idea lol. i'm in the computer/network business (self employeed) and have thought about the idea, but there are so many nay sayers that it's just not worth it, between that and painting cars for other people i think i could make alot of $, but i'm happy with helping out folks get their rides on the road. this method if done right and with patience, WILL turn out very good. it's all about the time you put into it and the prep quality. the issue is most people considering this method have never done body work before let alone paint. so usually the results are crappy, and the method suffers merrit. the paint is rock hard after 6 months, litterelly like a stove, the enamel dries very hard. but people expect the result instantly, and with all auto paints there is a lengthy drying time to reach full hardness. if you take your time and do proper prep, you can have a excellent paint job that not only lasts, but looks great. besides, if you take your time, this method will yeild results better than any macco paint job period. like i said many times before this paint is THE BEST paint i've ever used, as far as it's ease of use, and it's not prone to all the stuff auto paint are prone too, like fish eyes, peeling, fading, cracking, ect...you would really have to try or be retarded to pull off a crappy job!!!! besides painting your car with this method does not wreak the car, you CAN repaint it later, weather you use this method to hold you over for a few years until you can afford to have your car painted, or you take your time to make is the best you can, it will work either way.

c38 coupe, if i were you i'd paint the primer full strength, and dry sand it before paint, with probabally 300-400 grit. as for the pinholes, they are best welded, if you can get behind, you can use a brass or copper (i can't remember right now) block that the welds don't stick to, and then grind that flat, and use spot puddy to just perfect it. any pinholes that go thru the metal will just rust later. don't forget to paint behind the pannels too where ever possible. i allways paint the entire undercarriage, and inner floors with fully rubberized undercoating, not the ashfault crap, canadian tire has their own brand (made by 3M) which is a fully rubberized undercoat/rocker guard, in the professional line (gold and black label). that stuff is awesome, withstands heat, makes your car alot quieter, and is paintable over it.

also just a note for those of you using Wagner ele paint sprayers, i played that game too, and found that the thing is not consistent enough to give good results, you can get a much better result with the roller, and less mess, and fuss. plus that stupid wagner gun will all of a sudden start spitting, and create 10 times more work to fix. they work don't get me wrong, but it still makes a huge mess, and really takes more skill to do over the roller. the good ol' roller is the best method i've found for this paint, and i've done everything, and sprayed alot of single stage acrylic enamel. it really does'nt matter how you get the paint on the car (spray or roller, dip, ect...) just that you apply the right thickness and get a smooth paint application, the method is irrevellant.