Quote:

Quote:

A question to those who might know. Now we've pretty much completed our slacker method (me and my friend did his car). It came out nice but I would say we did prob half as good job of probably most the people on here (hey it looks better then before, thats what counts :P).

My question is though, I will be doing this to my car and since I love my car more I will do a lot more testing before I take it to the car, but I haven't gotten the chance to pick up a panel to test yet.

My main question is, would anyone think it would be easier sanding down to near bare metal, or bare metal itself, with something like > http://www.vwtrendsweb.com/tech/0401vwt_super15_s.jpg and then laying thin coats. I'm thinking it might help, maybe it's just me, I could see it needing more coats because of the bareness, but has anyone tried this? I'm sort of interested in doing so (since I want to do gloss white on my black car and I think doing that might be somewhat easier).

Let me know. Also, could you use that same tool to just scuff the paint quickly compared to using a block and paper alone? Advice would be a appreciated.



That tool is way too harsh for scuffing,it eats through paint and rust very quickly (depending on what drill it's attached to) and would be OK for stripping, but I would avoid stripping the whole car. There are scotch brite pads made for scuffing. I havent used them, I used some 320 grit wrapped around one of those soft sanding blocks for the areas of my car that I wanted to just scuff and go.

How is your friend's paint unsatisfactory? It seems like most appearance problems can be fixed by wetsanding with 2000, waiting a bit, then polishing. That would take care of orange peel and crap that landed in the paint.

As a followup to my using a thicker mixture - as of now, the paint is still tacky (after 11 hours at about 75 degrees). The thinner mixture would normally be dry by now.



I have to agree with Exit. I stripped my car down to bare metal and reget it completely. Live and learn but I would have much rather sanded down the rusted sections then scuffed the rest. It would have saved me a LOT of bondo and sanding. If you're worried about the white on black taking an unbearable number of coats, you could look into the light gray primer or even use the light gray rustoleum for a few coats to lessen the shark difference between the white and black then coat overtop that with the white. If you do decide to strip the car to bare metal, look back to page 18 or 19 where I posted I was using the wirewheel and read the replies about using a 80 grit disc. There's a link there that had good information that I could have used before I started. And now, I head back to the garage for more sanding.... JOY!