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1/ Should the paint as thin as water when mixed?
Just as the Rustoleum paint?




Brightside straight from the can is already thinner then Tremclad or Rustoleum from the can. You do not have to thin Brightside as much as Tremclad or Rustoleum. I would describe the fluid as being almost like coffee cream ( the 10% type ) in thickness and fluidity ). Just keep in mind that you should just be adding enough mineral spirit to the Brightside to make it 'a little more wetter'. Don't look at it as trying to make it mucho thinner.... just a little more wetter. And it is better to put less in to test your mixture then too much. You will get a pretty good idea of whether you have a workable mixture when you attempt to roll your first couple of strokes. It should not be providing strong color coverage when applied. It should only be applying a thin wet layer that will mildly tint the surface you are coating. It is only with repeated layers of this 'tinting' that will eventually accumulate up to 100% color coverage. You can also guage how appropriate the wetness of your mixture is by watching the bubbles. If the bubbles pop all on their own... then you probably are pretty close to the right mixture. If the bubbles tend to be too slow at self-popping.. that means that it needs just a little more mineral spirit to help weaken the tensile strength of the bubble surface ( which is held together by the paint and polyurathane molecules ). So the thinner is just being used to weaken slightly the attraction of those paint and polyurathane molecules that hold the bubbles surface together.

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4/ Do you know the brand "Motip" ?
I primed a little bit of the rust pieces of the car with this spray.
I hope the Brighside will stuck on this primer.




Brightside appears to be pretty compatible with most other paints. BUT you mentioned that it was a 'spray'. So just make sure that you sand that primer with a 400 or 600 grit paper to smooth it down... then wipe it down with your 'dampened' wiping cloth to remove any artifacts left from the sanding. This is to ensure that the Brightside is able to securely adhere to the surface. Some aerosol sprays don't get 100% adhesion when sprayed on because their adhesion ability is weakened as the paiit molecules fly through the air and their 'carrier' ( the solvent that keeps them wet ) evaporates slightly while in flight.

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5/ One thing is not clear for me...
In what direction did you roll 1 piece of the car?

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Ok... when doing side panels... do it one panel at a time. Starting from the top corner of the panel, go horizontally (side to side of that panel )... working your way downward. This way you are able to catch any runs that might have flowed downward.

Now.. on the hood... I would begin at the point of the hood nearest to the windhsield. I would roll towards the front of the hood. Again this is more of a gravity thing.. because paint tends to flow downward. Now the question about the hood is 'where on the hood to begin. Start from the corners and work your way eventually towards the center of the hood or start from the middle and work your way outwards towards the panels.

In a way it depends on the look and physical shape of the hood. On my McLaren, you will see that my hood has a lot of shapes ( scoops ) on it. So what I found worked for me was to start on the drivers side windshield corner and roll continuously towards the front of the hood. Then I would go back to where I started, move the roller over just a bit to allow for overlap and again go all the way down to the front of the hood.

Now...when I have reached about the center of the hood I would go to other side of the car and continue rolling from the center of the hood and continuing to lay coats so that eventually my final coat will end up being from the passenger side top corner down to the front of the hood.

The trunk lid also requires a bit of strategical thinking before you do it. You have to look at how your trunk surface merges with the panels and body parts around it. In my case, it turned out to be ideal by starting from the driver side top corner.. and rolling horizontally across from left to right. The final roll being from the bottom driver side corner to the bottom passenger side corner.

But everyone may have a different rolling pattern, based on the shape and size of their trunk. IF my trunk had been a big wide mother.. I probably would have followed the pattern I used on my hood.

And some folks are going to have to take into consider whether their side panels overlap up in to the overall surface of where the trunk or hood blends in to the body.

On my car, the front left and right side fender paels are part of the overall hood surface (roughly 6" on each side of the hood ). So I had to treat those upper surfaces of those fender panels as being part of the hood when laying down my coats. And I would stop at the point where the horizontal surface of fender panel transforms in to the vertical surface of the fender panel.

I hope I have been able to explain how you have to take into consideration the overall layout of your surfaces when planning how to roll your particular vehicle. As you can see, there is no one pattern of rolling that will suit all vehicles.


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6/ How much roller "paintholders" did you use?
Also 12 ?? every roller a new holder?
(I don't know the English word haha)




I was a bit wasteful. We had a 'dollar store' that sells cheap plastic formed 4" roller trays for 2 for $1 - so I bought about 10 of them ahhahahha. And I was using a new tray each time I went to lay down a new overall coating. BUT some folks are quite successful at simply cleaning out their trays after each usage. I just didn't want to waste the effort cleaning the cheapo paint trays. And I also was figuring that a fresh tray each time was the surest way to ensure that no previously dried paint or skin was left in the tray when I went to begin a new overall coating.


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7/ Is mineral spirits the same as White spirit ?




I don't know. What you have to look at are the actual contents in the bottle. Some types of mineral spirits are not 100% mineral spirits. Some companies cut their mineral spirits with other types of solvents ( kerosene, naphta etc ). What you hope to find on the packaging is that there are no additives mixed in with the mineral spirits.

Part of the problem is the localization of product names. In your country it may very well be that white spirit is the common name for mineral spirits. BUT then again... white spirit could be pure alcohol for all I know. In North America... spirits usually refers to an alcohol that is derived by distillation. Whiskey, scotch, vodka and gin are 'spirits' in North America

When in doubt try to consult with an actual paint shop that employs someone who actually knows about paints ( and hopefully not some high school kid who is working part time there as an after school job ). A real house painter in your country could probably clarify the difference.

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8/ Do you have a picture of the 4inch roller you used?
Must this be a mohair roller? or a high density foam roller?




High density foam rollers are a tight/high density foam. They are normally white in color and when you look at their surface closely.. you won't normally see gaping air pockets in them. They don't look like sponges. When you pinch them between your fingers... you will notice that they resist squishing and are a little firm. That is because they don't have large airpockets in them. In some cases you may be able to find the high density foam rollers labeled on their packaging as 'being ideal for use on melamine".

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9/ Did you also used the foam brushes??
Or only the paint spray for in the corners?
If so.. how much foam brushed did you uses?
Also 20 brushes?




As noted in my previous posting. I used spray bombs and I used foam paint brushes. Check the previous posting on that as I went into some detail about it.

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10/ Why did you use brake cleaner in the corners that are difficult to reach?
Can't you use mineral spirits in this corners??
Or is a spray easyer?




In some locations it is difficult to get a wet cloth covered in mineral spirits on to to remove the crap that has built up in those nooks and crannies. The aerosol brake spray cans, come with little straws that attach to the cap of the spray bomb and allow you to focus your blast of brake cleaner at those hard to reach spots. Between the flow of the cleaner and the air propelling it... you are able to dislodge most crap out of those little nooks and crannies.

In areas where you have easy access, sure make use of a wet cloth to wipe the surface down and get the road crap off it. The aerosol brake cleaner was mostly for those hard to reach spots for folks whose hands are too big to reach them.


Last edited by Marq; 12/09/08 12:57 PM.