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Re:
[Re: aussie]
#38554
12/08/08 04:31 AM
12/08/08 04:31 AM
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Anonymous
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Marq, Thanks for asking my questions, 1/ okay, I buy 12, 4inch high density foam rollers  I should do 4 coates of paint on my car, So about 3 rollers that I can use for 1 coat. 1 for rolling the paint, and 2 for popping the bubbles. What do you think marq, seems to be enough rollers? 2/ clear! thanks! 3/ Why is 4 cans of 1 liter better than 2 cans of 2.5 liter? Here in Holland they doesn't sell 1 liter cans  4/ nice nice nice pictures!! ======================================= I have one new question for you.. 5/ Did you use Interlux 333 Brushing and Thinning fluid, also for thinning the paint? or was your paint NOT thinned at all? 6/ Can I also whipe my car with this fluid before painting? 7/ Do you advice to mix the Brighside paint? Or just paint it out of the box? Thanks again! 
Last edited by greenbeauty; 12/08/08 06:13 AM.
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Re: 1972 Plymouth SSP - first coat
[Re: aussie]
#38555
12/08/08 09:53 AM
12/08/08 09:53 AM
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 103
Tampa, FL
Saint Crispan
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member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 103
Tampa, FL
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Quote:
Did you use a roll on primer or spray on
I rolled on the primer. The primer is Rustoleum as well, says on the label that it's ok for anything (paint, wood, metal); I figured if I was going to sand the rust down to metal but only "rough up" the rest of the paint, that it'd be the perfect primer. Keep in mind that primer is, at best, a temporary stage. I forgot that (I let the car sit for more than three weeks) and developed some rust patches even under the primer. I guess it's also possible that I didn't roll it on heavy enough.
In any case, I ended up sanding the roof with 400 and doing another coat of primer, about two weeks before I put this first coat of blue on.
It says earlier in this thread that you can put the alkyd enamel Rustoleum over anything, so I'm not really worried about the rust patches. The primer was more so I could get an even color on the car, as well as allowing me to sand to metal the surface rust.
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Re:
#38556
12/08/08 02:00 PM
12/08/08 02:00 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
okay, I buy 12, 4inch high density foam rollers
I should do 4 coates of paint on my car,
So about 3 rollers that I can use for 1 coat.
1 for rolling the paint, and 2 for popping the bubbles.
What do you think marq, seems to be enough rollers?
I think that is a safe amount to start with. You 'may' have to go buy more.. but with 12 in your kit, you won't have to rush to the store for more for a while
Quote:
Why is 4 cans of 1 liter better than 2 cans of 2.5 liter?
Here in Holland they doesn't sell 1 liter cans
Bizarre... I didn't see any 2.5 liter cans offered in Canada. So 2 cans of 2.5 should be enough..
Quote:
Did you use Interlux 333 Brushing and Thinning fluid, also for thinning the paint? or was your paint NOT thinned at all?
Oddly enough, I began by using the 'official' 333 Brushing and Thinning fluid. BUT part way through a coating I ran out. So I just substituted pure mineral spirits and it worked the very same and at a much lower cost. So go with the mineral spirits to save some bucks.
Quote:
Can I also whipe my car with this fluid before painting?
You can use either the 333 or the pure mineral spirits for the wiping. BUT just remember that you are only 'dampening' the cloth... not soaking the cloth. Too much on the cloth would lead to too much softening of the previous coat of paint. So if the cloth is only slightly dampened, then it will be able to wipe off any artifacts on the surface without leaving any surplus of the solvent to weaken the previous coating.
Quote:
Do you advice to mix the Brighside paint?
Or just paint it out of the box?
I found it worthwhile to add 'a little' mineral spirit to the paint. This gives you a little more time to 'work' with the paint when you apply it to the car.. and it gives the paint an additional bit of time for it to reach its self-leveling point. Paint straight out of the can tends to go on too thick and doesn't reach its level of self-leveling before the outer skin of the fresh paint begins to cure ( harden ). That might lead to orange peel later. So just a little thinning buys you some forgiveness in the paint and buys you a little extra time when rolling. IF the temperature you are working in was extremely hot.. you could add even a little more thinner to buy additional time ( as a hotter working area will be speeding up the evaporation of the solvents and carrier in the paint
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Re:
[Re: Marq]
#38557
12/08/08 09:46 PM
12/08/08 09:46 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Hello Marq...I am on the west coast and I want to paint my car with the Satin Enamel which appears to be used only with the Rustoleum product  ...Is this available in Canada?..Wonder how the semi gloss Tremclad would look like? ..thanks for any input Ron 
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Re:
#38558
12/09/08 02:13 AM
12/09/08 02:13 AM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Hello Marq...I am on the west coast and I want to paint my car with the Satin Enamel which appears to be used only with the Rustoleum product ...Is this available in Canada?..Wonder how the semi gloss Tremclad would look like? ..thanks for any input
Ron
Ok... so you are trying to go for a flat finish ( or semi-flat look ) ?
I can't speak to the Tremclad or Rustoleum product as I didn't really look at their semi-gloss products.
BUT I do know for a fact that Brightside ( Interlux paints ) does sell an additive that you can add to your Brightside paint and it turns the Brightside paint from a high gloss to a semi-gloss or flat (mat) paint ( depending on how much of this additive you add to the high gloss paint.
.
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Re:
[Re: Marq]
#38559
12/09/08 03:07 AM
12/09/08 03:07 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Marq, 1/ Should the paint as thin as water when mixed? Just as the Rustoleum paint? 2/ Ok, so about 4 liter is enough for an average car 3/ ok, I buy mineral spirits for thinning and whipping my car 4/ Do you know the brand "Motip" ? I primed a little bit of the rust pieces of the car with this spray. I hope the Brighside will stuck on this primer. 5/ One thing is not clear for me... In what direction did you roll 1 piece of the car? For example the hood. Begin in the corner on the bottom, and go up and down al the way horizontally? | | | | | <-- in vertical lines? -------- <-- or in horizontal lines? 6/ How much roller "paintholders" did you use? Also 12 ?? every roller a new holder? (I don't know the English word haha) 7/ Is mineral spirits the same as White spirit ? 8/ Do you have a picture of the 4inch roller you used? Must this be a mohair roller? or a high density foam roller? 9/ Did you also used the foam brushes?? Or only the paint spray for in the corners? If so.. how much foam brushed did you uses? Also 20 brushes? 10/ Why did you use brake cleaner in the corners that are difficult to reach? Can't you use mineral spirits in this corners?? Or is a spray easyer? Sorry for all the questions! 
Last edited by greenbeauty; 12/09/08 03:56 AM.
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Re:
#38560
12/09/08 12:51 PM
12/09/08 12:51 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
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Quote:
1/ Should the paint as thin as water when mixed?
Just as the Rustoleum paint?
Brightside straight from the can is already thinner then Tremclad or Rustoleum from the can. You do not have to thin Brightside as much as Tremclad or Rustoleum. I would describe the fluid as being almost like coffee cream ( the 10% type ) in thickness and fluidity ). Just keep in mind that you should just be adding enough mineral spirit to the Brightside to make it 'a little more wetter'. Don't look at it as trying to make it mucho thinner.... just a little more wetter. And it is better to put less in to test your mixture then too much. You will get a pretty good idea of whether you have a workable mixture when you attempt to roll your first couple of strokes. It should not be providing strong color coverage when applied. It should only be applying a thin wet layer that will mildly tint the surface you are coating. It is only with repeated layers of this 'tinting' that will eventually accumulate up to 100% color coverage. You can also guage how appropriate the wetness of your mixture is by watching the bubbles. If the bubbles pop all on their own... then you probably are pretty close to the right mixture. If the bubbles tend to be too slow at self-popping.. that means that it needs just a little more mineral spirit to help weaken the tensile strength of the bubble surface ( which is held together by the paint and polyurathane molecules ). So the thinner is just being used to weaken slightly the attraction of those paint and polyurathane molecules that hold the bubbles surface together.
Quote:
4/ Do you know the brand "Motip" ?
I primed a little bit of the rust pieces of the car with this spray.
I hope the Brighside will stuck on this primer.
Brightside appears to be pretty compatible with most other paints. BUT you mentioned that it was a 'spray'. So just make sure that you sand that primer with a 400 or 600 grit paper to smooth it down... then wipe it down with your 'dampened' wiping cloth to remove any artifacts left from the sanding. This is to ensure that the Brightside is able to securely adhere to the surface. Some aerosol sprays don't get 100% adhesion when sprayed on because their adhesion ability is weakened as the paiit molecules fly through the air and their 'carrier' ( the solvent that keeps them wet ) evaporates slightly while in flight.
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5/ One thing is not clear for me...
In what direction did you roll 1 piece of the car?
Quote:
Ok... when doing side panels... do it one panel at a time. Starting from the top corner of the panel, go horizontally (side to side of that panel )... working your way downward. This way you are able to catch any runs that might have flowed downward.
Now.. on the hood... I would begin at the point of the hood nearest to the windhsield. I would roll towards the front of the hood. Again this is more of a gravity thing.. because paint tends to flow downward. Now the question about the hood is 'where on the hood to begin. Start from the corners and work your way eventually towards the center of the hood or start from the middle and work your way outwards towards the panels.
In a way it depends on the look and physical shape of the hood. On my McLaren, you will see that my hood has a lot of shapes ( scoops ) on it. So what I found worked for me was to start on the drivers side windshield corner and roll continuously towards the front of the hood. Then I would go back to where I started, move the roller over just a bit to allow for overlap and again go all the way down to the front of the hood.
Now...when I have reached about the center of the hood I would go to other side of the car and continue rolling from the center of the hood and continuing to lay coats so that eventually my final coat will end up being from the passenger side top corner down to the front of the hood.
The trunk lid also requires a bit of strategical thinking before you do it. You have to look at how your trunk surface merges with the panels and body parts around it. In my case, it turned out to be ideal by starting from the driver side top corner.. and rolling horizontally across from left to right. The final roll being from the bottom driver side corner to the bottom passenger side corner.
But everyone may have a different rolling pattern, based on the shape and size of their trunk. IF my trunk had been a big wide mother.. I probably would have followed the pattern I used on my hood.
And some folks are going to have to take into consider whether their side panels overlap up in to the overall surface of where the trunk or hood blends in to the body.
On my car, the front left and right side fender paels are part of the overall hood surface (roughly 6" on each side of the hood ). So I had to treat those upper surfaces of those fender panels as being part of the hood when laying down my coats. And I would stop at the point where the horizontal surface of fender panel transforms in to the vertical surface of the fender panel.
I hope I have been able to explain how you have to take into consideration the overall layout of your surfaces when planning how to roll your particular vehicle. As you can see, there is no one pattern of rolling that will suit all vehicles.
Quote:
6/ How much roller "paintholders" did you use?
Also 12 ?? every roller a new holder?
(I don't know the English word haha)
I was a bit wasteful. We had a 'dollar store' that sells cheap plastic formed 4" roller trays for 2 for $1 - so I bought about 10 of them ahhahahha. And I was using a new tray each time I went to lay down a new overall coating. BUT some folks are quite successful at simply cleaning out their trays after each usage. I just didn't want to waste the effort cleaning the cheapo paint trays. And I also was figuring that a fresh tray each time was the surest way to ensure that no previously dried paint or skin was left in the tray when I went to begin a new overall coating.
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7/ Is mineral spirits the same as White spirit ?
I don't know. What you have to look at are the actual contents in the bottle. Some types of mineral spirits are not 100% mineral spirits. Some companies cut their mineral spirits with other types of solvents ( kerosene, naphta etc ). What you hope to find on the packaging is that there are no additives mixed in with the mineral spirits.
Part of the problem is the localization of product names. In your country it may very well be that white spirit is the common name for mineral spirits. BUT then again... white spirit could be pure alcohol for all I know. In North America... spirits usually refers to an alcohol that is derived by distillation. Whiskey, scotch, vodka and gin are 'spirits' in North America 
When in doubt try to consult with an actual paint shop that employs someone who actually knows about paints ( and hopefully not some high school kid who is working part time there as an after school job ). A real house painter in your country could probably clarify the difference.
Quote:
8/ Do you have a picture of the 4inch roller you used?
Must this be a mohair roller? or a high density foam roller?
High density foam rollers are a tight/high density foam. They are normally white in color and when you look at their surface closely.. you won't normally see gaping air pockets in them. They don't look like sponges. When you pinch them between your fingers... you will notice that they resist squishing and are a little firm. That is because they don't have large airpockets in them. In some cases you may be able to find the high density foam rollers labeled on their packaging as 'being ideal for use on melamine".
Quote:
9/ Did you also used the foam brushes??
Or only the paint spray for in the corners?
If so.. how much foam brushed did you uses?
Also 20 brushes?
As noted in my previous posting. I used spray bombs and I used foam paint brushes. Check the previous posting on that as I went into some detail about it.
Quote:
10/ Why did you use brake cleaner in the corners that are difficult to reach?
Can't you use mineral spirits in this corners??
Or is a spray easyer?
In some locations it is difficult to get a wet cloth covered in mineral spirits on to to remove the crap that has built up in those nooks and crannies. The aerosol brake spray cans, come with little straws that attach to the cap of the spray bomb and allow you to focus your blast of brake cleaner at those hard to reach spots. Between the flow of the cleaner and the air propelling it... you are able to dislodge most crap out of those little nooks and crannies.
In areas where you have easy access, sure make use of a wet cloth to wipe the surface down and get the road crap off it. The aerosol brake cleaner was mostly for those hard to reach spots for folks whose hands are too big to reach them.
Last edited by Marq; 12/09/08 12:57 PM.
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Re:
[Re: Marq]
#38561
12/10/08 03:10 AM
12/10/08 03:10 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
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Okay thanks!! It's time to begin with my project I post some photo's soon on this forum. Uhmm one thing.. Where did you mix the Brightside? In the paint holder every time with each panel? Or mixed the whole can with 750ml paint ? And is this also the paint you used? http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=130237&RelType=2Btw.. this is a wiki about white spirit: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spiritSeems to be the same as mineral spirit?
Last edited by greenbeauty; 12/10/08 06:14 AM.
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Re:
[Re: Marq]
#38563
12/11/08 09:08 AM
12/11/08 09:08 AM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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hehe youre the man
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
#38564
12/13/08 04:38 PM
12/13/08 04:38 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
70gs
member
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member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
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Anyone have any pictures using the greens offered, I wanted to use brightside on a project car, but the sea green doesn't look dark enough for the color Im looking for. The color is verde green
Any help appreciated
Last edited by 70gs; 12/13/08 06:12 PM.
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
[Re: 70gs]
#38565
12/15/08 03:27 AM
12/15/08 03:27 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Quote:
Anyone have any pictures using the greens offered, I wanted to use brightside on a project car, but the sea green doesn't look dark enough for the color Im looking for. The color is verde green
Any help appreciated
If you have any marine / boat stores or suppliers near you which sell Brightside, there's a good chance they will have a color chip chart. I saw one of these at a "West Marine" store. I remember the Sea Green. It is a fairly dark green -- at least it looks darker on the chip than it does on the Internet color swatches.
I guess the best way, though, would be to buy the smallest quantity you can and see for sure. I can never tell what something will look like life size from one of those small chips.
-- Dan
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Re:
[Re: Marq]
#38566
12/15/08 02:23 PM
12/15/08 02:23 PM
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
69DartGT
OP
moparts member
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OP
moparts member
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,405
Southern, Ca.
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Quote:
That should match up nicely with the Brightside 'Fire Red'. I used the Tremclad 'Fire Red'... but I am not sure what the 'red' name is for the Rustoleum product. I didn't think it was called 'bright red'. But I do know that the Rustoleum product line and the Tremclad product line are identical colors ( since the same company owns both product brand names ).
I used Brightside "fire red" and Rustoleum's "safety red" great match.
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Re:
#38567
12/16/08 11:31 AM
12/16/08 11:31 AM
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
andyoucankeepit
member
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member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 13
toronto, ohio
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i also want to see some semi gloss paint jobs.
03 cobra, 85 mustang, 59 galaxie, 68 sportster
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
#38568
12/16/08 03:32 PM
12/16/08 03:32 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
70gs
member
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member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
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If you have any marine / boat stores or suppliers near you which sell Brightside, there's a good chance they will have a color chip chart. I saw one of these at a "West Marine" store. I remember the Sea Green. It is a fairly dark green -- at least it looks darker on the chip than it does on the Internet color swatches. I guess the best way, though, would be to buy the smallest quantity you can and see for sure. I can never tell what something will look like life size from one of those small chips. -- Dan
Thanks for the responce. Unfortunetly there's no marine store's in my town, nearest is like 100 miles away. I was hoping to get lucky with someone that actually used it and had some photo's.
It is encouraging that you say its darker than the color charts on the internet. This is the chart I was looking at
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/images/Multi/Interlux/large/64s.jpg
Thanks again
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
[Re: 70gs]
#38569
12/17/08 01:40 PM
12/17/08 01:40 PM
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Quote:
... Unfortunetly there's no marine store's in my town, nearest is like 100 miles away.
Yep, I see Arizona in your signature. Bodies of water are few and far between there.
Quote:
It is encouraging that you say its darker than the color charts on the internet. This is the chart I was looking at
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/images/Multi/Interlux/large/64s.jpg
Hmmmm. Looking at THAT chart, I have to say it's fairly close to what I remember (at least it is on MY computer monitor. That's the problem with internet and digital photos -- colors will represent differently on different monitors.)
Looking at that chart, I would tell you to imagine that color swatch in a gloss finish and a tiny, tiny bit darker and you have what I saw on their physical color chart/card. It is NOT a British Racing Green (which to me, looks darker that Brightside green. To me British Racing Green looks like it has a little blue in it to darken it). The Brightside green appears to me as a fairly pure (but not "bright") green. It is definitely NOT a green which is tending towards grey or black. Green isn't very popular on cars these days. The British Racing Green you see on a lot of Jags. I can't think of any popular cars to point you to that look like that Brightside green.
What you're looking for is this (in a printed version) :
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4139
I'll bet if you called one of these places they might mail you a printed card. Alternatively, the marine supply place I've been to just moved to a couple miles from my house. I drive past there on a regular basis. I'll stop in over the next few days and see if I can secure a card. If I can, it's yours. I'll let you know by way of this thread...
-- Dan
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
#38570
12/17/08 06:03 PM
12/17/08 06:03 PM
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
70gs
member
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member
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 5
arizona
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Hmmmm. Looking at THAT chart, I have to say it's fairly close to what I remember (at least it is on MY computer monitor. That's the problem with internet and digital photos -- colors will represent differently on different monitors.) I hear you brother, when looking at it on this site it appears darker, than the actual color shown on that site.  Im not a big fan of greens, but I wanted to keep it the same color and try to get away without painting the door jambs, underside of the trunk lid, cause there cherry. I found a complete 69 Buick GS 400 in the arizona desert that hasn't been registered since 1977 that has a perfect rustfree body, but the arizona sun has taking its toll on the exterior paint from sitting in a field for 31 years. I just want to give a fresh coat till I can do a minor restoration. This is a picture of a verde green 69, but again the color comes out lighter in this picture than it actually is
Last edited by 70gs; 12/19/08 06:33 PM.
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Re
[Re: aussie]
#38571
12/18/08 07:32 AM
12/18/08 07:32 AM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Marq, One question!!! Quote:
I would say that when you go to buy your paint.... go with four 1 liter cans. The odds are that with 'thinning' taken into consideration... you 'should' be able to squeeze at least three overall coatings per can.
And again depending on whether you are going to do the underside of the hood ( bonnet ) and trunk ( boot ) you might want about 4 aerosol cans of the red paint ( this will also be used for the nooks and crannies that you will be spraying.
I have an average car (nissan 240sx)
Here they sell the paint in 0,75L cans.
I sprayed the inside of the trunk, and under the bonnet (not rolled)
So the paint is only for rolling the large places.
Do you think 3 can's of 0,75L is enough for my car?
I'm going from dark red, to fire red
So that's not a very though colour to do.
Greetings!
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Re: Re
#38572
12/18/08 12:17 PM
12/18/08 12:17 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
Marq
mopar addict
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mopar addict
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 575
Canada
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Quote:
Marq,
One question!!!
I have an average car (nissan 240sx)
Here they sell the paint in 0,75L cans.
I sprayed the inside of the trunk, and under the bonnet (not rolled)
So the paint is only for rolling the large places.
Do you think 3 can's of 0,75L is enough for my car?
I'm going from dark red, to fire red
So that's not a very though colour to do.
Greetings!
It all depends. It depends on whether the original red paint is basically intact and you are just having to scuff it to remove whatever surface gloss it has, before painting. In that case, it definitely could be done with 3 cans.
IF you have done bodywork and primering... then it 'may' work out ok with 3 cans... but 4 cans might likely be necessary.
.
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Re: Brightside or Rustoleom green
[Re: 70gs]
#38573
12/18/08 01:18 PM
12/18/08 01:18 PM
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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Anonymous
Unregistered
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I'll still pick up the Brightside color card in the next couple days but... the Brightside green is not the same color at all as the Buick in your picture. The verde green on the Buick has an Olive tone to it. Definitely not the case for Brightside green. If you're just looking for any green to somewhat match the jams, trunk and hood underside, etc. then I guess it would be sorta OK. If you like that Verde Green color and want to keep to something pretty close to it, I think you're going to have to experiment with mixing your own color. Here's a decent video which shows you how to systematically arrive at your desired color: http://www.baa-direct.com/Day3Course.html...OR... Just had another thought. Somewhere in this extensive discussion it was mentioned that the Ace Hardware rust covering enamel paint is the same thing as Rustoleum AND that Ace Hardware will do custom color mixing. I imagine these stores have a color scanner which figures out the mix. So, if you can find a sample of the color you want -- you could take it to an Ace Hardware and get it mixed exactly. The advantage of doing this (vs. trying it yourself) is that once you get it right, they will also supply you with the ratios of pigments used in the mix -- so you'll always be able to have it duplicated later.
Last edited by Black Mariah; 12/18/08 04:50 PM.
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