Quote:

Hi everyone

When painting with foam rollers and thinning the paint with mineral spirits, should the paint be a little thicker for the vertical surface then the horizontal surfaces?






Nope... same paint mixture on top surface and side panels. It needs to be applied in 'thin' wet layers...

Quote:



I remember reading the start of these posts and it was suggested that the paint be almost as thin as water. wouldn't this consistancy just run down the sides of the vertical surface?






Yes it would run if you were overloading the roller and trying to put on toooooo much per layer or pressing down on the roller way too much. But as noted in the previous message you are laying on really thin layers... one at a time... and basically just wetting the surface evenly with each coat. No matter what color you are adding.. each layer will almost be translucent.. It is only after you add about 5 or 6 layers ( Tremclad/Rustoleum) that it all starts adding up and giving you a uniform color on the vehicle.

Quote:



will the paint settle flat like on a horizontal surface?






Yes.. the Tremclad/Rustoleum and Brightside will all settle flat to the vertical and horizontal surface. The only risk on the vertical sides is that if you try to lay it on toooo thick ( or too much at one time ) it has the potential to run ( that is simply gravity taking over ). But if you are laying on just thin wetting layers the paint solution is more attracted to clinging to the surface it is on than being pulled downward by gravity.

Quote:



I just did my truck with the same paint and I had to scrap it all off as the paint didn't stick to the duplicolor primer/sealer.






I don't know why the Duplicolor primer/sealer would present any problem with any of the paint mixtures. When you wiped the body down with mineral spirit to clean all the dust and crap off the body prior to painting... did you give the primer/sealer sufficient time to evaporate whatever mineral spirit it might have absorbed ?

Quote:



Up here where I live it gets damp at night and I end up with moisture which is not good as you know for painting.(I don't have a dry garage to paint)






The mositure won't present too much problems at the end of the process. In theory, while you are applying the paint/mineral spirit mixture, it 'should' be displacing moisture on the car.... The main detriment of moisture is that it tends to lessen the gloss or shine of the surface top layer. But that is something you can remedy and put right when you do your final wet sand, compounding, polishing and waxing.

Quote:



..sucks spending countless hours to prep for paint and then this happens it will be to cold soon...

thanks all




In a way it could be a blessing too... Although we all would love to nail it right the first time... stuff can happen and Murphy's Law can intervene in the best of situations. So all we can do is chalk it up to our 'learning curve'. And hopefully when we take the next crack at it... the ninja paint rolling skills will have become almost second nature and more at ease when you attempt it. I found that when I had to take a step backward and sand an area down to correct a problem, it allowed me to keep improving the smoothness of the bodywork. The better and smoother the subsurface, the better the end product.

.

Last edited by 69DartGT; 09/15/06 07:26 PM.