THREAD UPDATE:

I am updating this thread due to the request on the General Forum:

I have been tuning out the medium/heavy throttle A/F reading (once the PV is open but no secondary down shift). Since I have drilled out my PVCR's to the point of no material (.078") left before breaking in half, I have been messing with the primary HSAB's and the primary jetting. My carb came stock with 68's and I have been doing testing from the 68's down to 58's. I have also been doing testing on the stock .033 primary HSAB's up to .042" HSAB's. Since my problem was while cruising and I press down on the accel pedal until the PV opens (8.5), then my A/F readings were in the upper 14's. With the combination of the stock .033 HSAB's/.078 PVCR's, and 67 primary jets, I am now getting mid 13's under this same condition. The car is very responsive since sticking with this setup. It likes it a lot!!!

Another change for this year was swapping from 89 octane to 91/92. I have had to richen up my in D A/F (last year and this Spring it was at 13.8-14.0) and my cruising A/F and my WOT A/F. I am thinking that my local gas station must have changed gas again. It is UP TO E10 just like last year but I had to richen up the overall A/F by about .5 point. The car runs great at this level too!! Richening up the in D idle from 14.0ish down to 13.5ish helped a bunch on the cold start up and the hot startup. Both of these were a bear to keep the engine running but now since I am at 13.5ish, it is much easier to manage at both cold and hot start ups.
I have driven the car with the below setup now for a week or so in cooler outside temps and I am at the point where I can't change anything without compromising the A/F in other driving situations. I Now have a "middle of the road" setup. I always read where you can only tune a carb so much and that you have to pick your battles on what you want for readings. I have found my best setup since tuning with the two A/F sensors and on E10/91-92 octane.

This is my current setup:
In D idle timing: 32 (FBO "manifold vacuum" distrubitor, 18 initial, + 14 at idle = 32, then 34 total + vacuum advance) This makes starting the car and shutting the car off much cleaner. It has 32 degrees timing once the engine is started. Once the engine is cranking or shutting down, the timing drops to 18. I love this setup!
I have a idle stop solenoid wired into the NSS that allows me to separately adjust my D/2/1 idle rpms versus my P/N rpms. I can run 900rpms in P/N and then when in D I can run 1000rpms which allows the alternator to spin fast enough to keep the electrical gauge happy. I love this setup too.

You will see from the next numbers that I am currently charting my A/F numbers from in D to cruising at 65 mph and I get the A/F range from 13.4 to 14.0 to 13.4. The readings are nice and steady all the way up and down.
D: 13.4/13.6
40 mph: 13.8
45 mph: 13.8
50 mph: 14.0
55 mph: 13.8 (mains starting in:2700rpms)
60 mph: 13.6
65 mph: 13.4
NOTE: My engine starts to surge around 14.4 A/F.

I only test my WOT A/F by cruising at 50mph and going straight to WOT. This give me a good test procedure every time. Last year I was aiming for 12.6-12.8 but it was not as strong as I think it should have felt. This year I richened up this number to 12.2-12.4 and it feels great!

My current Quick Fuel carb is a SS-750-AN and this is my setup:
67/75 jets
IFR's at .033" (Metering Screws outward 1/2 turn)
.033/.036 HSAB's (I tune the secondary HSAB's to get me the WOT A/F desired after outside temps change year around.)
.050/.060 IAB's
Red/.037 both front and rear
Secondary linkage set on 40% delay
Bowls are set to 1/2 in the glass per QF
Idle fuel psi at 6-3/4"

This setup is a blast to drive. At a stop in D, I can mash the throttle and have instant tire spin. I might have to get some stickier tires next year. Any where in the cruising range I can mash the throttle and have instant acceleration.

I love this carb and my wideband sensors!!