On a cold start with the choke on in park, my a/f was in the low 13's during the summer. When fall rolled around and the temps were not far above freezing, that a/f went to the low 14's. I would warm it for 30 seconds, kick it down and go. During that initial part of cold driving where my choke was still closed, I found my a/f didn't really change as the choke opened. However if I tried a cold start with the choke wired open, it would want to run very lean like 16-17:1. I was running a thermoquad at the time with the stock choke with the electric heating element disconnected. Headers, aluminum heads and a stock cast iron intake and I found it took a bit longer than necessary for the choke to open, especially compared to the stock heads w/ manifolds and a functioning exhaust heat crossover in the intake. Next time I would just do a manual choke instead.
Quote: Good info I'm thinking of purchasing a kit soon. One question I have is these lc-1 and lm-1 kits are a single sensor correct/ which bank are you guys monitoring? Or Do you switch the sensor between banks or put the sensor in the H-pipe if so equiped?
Thanks Gary
I just picked one bank and installed it. I jet both sides of the carb the same so I don't really see a reason to run two o2 sensors. Another thing I read was running an engine with an unpowered wideband o2 sensor can ruin it because soot/carbon can build up on it and without it being powered, it's heater isn't running to burn that stuff off.
