I decided to leave the HSAB's alone and just change the secondary jetting to get my 50mph-WOT number richer than my previous 13.0 A/F. I swapped my #80's for some #82's and then my 50mph-WOT A/F ratio went down to 12.2-12.6 to the shift point. Then I wanted to test what would happen if I lowered the rear float only by 1/4 turn and that chage made the same 50mph-WOT A/F go to 12.4-12.8. So it appears that using the rear float can "tweak" in the WOT a/f number if needed.
I then decided to lower the primary float by 1/4 turn and it leaned out my cruise A/F by about .4 points on the gauge. This is where I ended up after several drives today in 75 temps.
D (foot on brake) = 13.2-13.4 (this number can go as lean at 13.6-13.8 before I start to have idle issues)
30mph = 14.0
40mph = 14.6
50mph = 14.8-15.0
60mph = 14.6-14.8
50-WOT shift point = 12.6-12.8
I achieved the above cruising numbers with 60 main jets, .060" iab's, .031" ifr's, and .039" hsab's.

I did find that the 50mph-WOT felt quicker with the A/F ratio in the 12.6-12.8 range than it did in the richer 12.2-12.4 range. The half a point was felt in my seat.

My primary cam/squirter is good with a Red/.042" combo. This gives me a smoooooth light throttle take off from a stop to cruise in the 13.8-14.2 A/F range. This combo also helps keep my medium throttle A/F into the 13.5-14.0 range which feels strong. This is with a 10.5 high flow power valve, .069" pvcr's, and small #60 main jets.

Now I am testing my secondary cam position and linkage delay (40% or 60% delay for the mechanical secondaries). Like last Summer, I have found that adding an "air gap" on the secondary pump linkage (between cam and bolt) helped lean out the WOT stabs at lower speeds. I started out with a 11.0 A/F reading from idle to WOT and now I am down to a 12.0 reading by increasing the gap which limits the extra fuel of the secondary pump. I have a couple more tests to run (enlarging the gap about one full turn at a time) before finishing my pump cam testing. Making this "air gap" did affect my 50mph-WOT reaction but adding a larger squirter on the secondary pump fixed that issue.
I now know that for my setup, that my in D A/F, my cruising A/F, and my WOT A/F numbers are close enough to leave alone. Now for the timing of the secondaries.
I have learned that just 1/4 turn on either float and 1/12 of a turn on each metering screw can affect the A/F ratio by .4/.6 on the gauge.

For those of you who are thinking of getting an O/2 sensor for your carb tuning, I can't think of a better tool that you can buy. They sure help show where you have been and where to go next on your tuning.
I started this thread with the idea of learning what each change can do to the state of tune. I had no idea how involved this thread would get after a year of tuning. This shows that even a DP carb can be tuned to work well on the street. I look back and kick myself for not getting an O2 sensor earlier.