2013: I just wanted to give a few updates for those who might be interested.

The first item is for WOT tuning. I have always thought that once you have the primary side tuned and then you have the secondary pump cam tuned, then you just change the secondary jets to tune your WOT a/f reading. On some carbs this is correct, but a cool thing that another member pointed out to me last year (and I did not believe him until I tried it) was if you have adjustable HSAB's, you can use them to tweak in your WOT A/F ratio without opening up the carb and changing the jets. For those who already know this, then this will be worthless info. For those like me who did not know this, I can tell you what I learned.
I have three sets of HSAB's (.033, .036, & .039). I started with the middle set (.036) and then I jetted the secondaries until I obtained a 12.5 WOT A/F reading (My WOT target reading year around). This allows me to just swap in the secondary HSAB's to lean out the carb apx .2-.4 or richen the carb by the same amount as the outside weather changes instead of opening up the carb and rejetting when the temps change. So in the Summer heat, I can swap in the .039's and in the Spring/Fall, I can swap in the .033's and depending on the outside temp, these two changes keep me right around the 12.5 A/F mark. I am still stagger jetting my secondaries to keep both A/F gauges close side to side. The passenger side is 2 jets leaner than the drivers side.


Another issues that I had last year was at cruising speeds (40-70mph) and then lightly giving more throttle (transition circuit, not mains), the A/F would lean out into the high 14's -15 until I pressed down enough to start the mains or until the seconds kicked in (DP carb). Since I was in the 15-17" vacuum reading range when this was happening, I was trying to cover this lean spot with the front pump cam/squirters. I made several cam/squirter changes with no real A/F changes. Keep in mind that my cruising A/F from 40-70mph was in the 13.8-14.0 range (E10 stoich = 14.1), so I did not want to change the cruising A/F, I just wanted to add more fuel during light accel at cruise. With this setup, I did not think that the main jetting was affecting this issue since I was seeing the 13.8-14.0 A/F readings from 60-70mph (I am on the mains at this highway speed.). I was using small IAB's (.054 to .060) to allow this to happen with 63 main jets. This combo cruised nice but I am now finding that this was my issue. Even though the cruising A/F looked good, it appears that when the carb was transitioning into the mains, that this was causing the lean readings at cruise to light accel.
This spring I am playing with the main jetting and the IAB's to once again obtain a 13.8-14.0 cruising A/F reading but with using 65 main jets. The first time out after swapping in the 65 main jets (no IAB changes), my cruising to light accel richened up to upper 12's to upper 13's which feels allot better. But my cruising A/F (40-70mph) dropped and my 60-70mph A/F readings are now 13.0-13.2 (mains) and my 40-60mph A/F readings (idle/transition) are now 13.6-13.2 which is richer than what I want to be. I will be able to lean out the cruising numbers with larger IAB's to get me back into the upper 13's but I need to see if that leans out the cruise to light accel numbers too much. Worse case if the 60-70mph A/F stays too rich but my 40-60mph leans out like it should, then I will swap out the primary HSAB's from .036 to .039 which should lean it out about .5 or so on the meters.

I test drove the .064 IAB's and the 40-60mph leaned out to 14.4-14.0 and the car just sounded off at that A/F reading in 60 degree weather. The mains only leaned out to 13.2 so the IAB's only helped out up to about 55mph or so.
The next move is to lean out the 60-70 (mains) into the mid 13's and leave them alone. I will also go back to the .060 IAB's to richen up the transition circuit back into the mid-high 13's and test drive it for a while.