I have been doing some WOT tests and after several attempts to find what my combo likes, I now know the answer.
Since this is a street car, I decided to make all of my WOT attempts from a steady 50mph cruising speed (14.2 A/F) and let the car go thru the first shift point which is 5800rpms. Then I write down what the richest spike is right when I go to the floor with the pedal (DP carb) and then I also take notes on what the A/F reading at that WOT shift point.
Note: All of these tests were taken with the outside temps between 75-85 degrees.

I started out with 82 rear jets and I was getting rich spikes into the high 11's with the 50mph cruise to WOT A/F showing 12.2-12.4. I ran this way for several weeks and the car felt good at WOT but not great. The car was also showing low 11 spikes at a stop to WOT too which is waaay rich with my auto/3500rpm flash/3:91/27" tire setup.
I then lowered the rear float and got the WOT A/F showing 12.4/12.6 with spikes still in the high 11's. The car felt about the same so I wanted to lean it out again.
I then swapped out the rear jets from 82's to 80's and then reajusted the rear float to achieve 12.8 A/F at WOT and what a huge performance response this gave. My WOT spikes were in the 12.4 range while the WOT shift point was at 12.8 at both WOT shifts. My idle to WOT response was excellent with my spike around the 12.0-12.2 range. This was my best WOT setup to date.
I still wanted to test a leaner WOT A/F so I swapped out my 80 rear jets for 78's and then adjusted my rear float to achieve a 13.0-13.2 WOT A/F reading. This felt good but I could tell that the power faded, but I did not hear any detonation.
I then lowered my rear float again and got a 13.2-13.4 WOT A/F reading and the power went down. My idle to WOT reaction was not as good and my overall performance went down and I started hearing detonation at hard throttle and WOT.
So after testing my rich WOT number (12.2 A/F) and then my lean WOT limit (13.4 A/F), I have now rejetted to go back to the 12.8 WOT A/F number. This is leaner than a chart that I have for 10%E (12.2), but I have found what the best performing A/F needs to be for my combo.

All of my testing has been done with one FAST #170634 A/F sensor kit on the drivers side exhaust header collector. I have now talked myself into a second A/F sensor kit to start looking at the passenger side numbers. I could have just moved the existing sensor to the passenger side, but I want to beat myself to death by added a second sensor and see how close I can get both sides to read. They should both be close but I know from my experience that a small movement in one metering screw can sure make the A/F gauge move. Since I have one side of the carb setup per the gauge and I only "eye-ball" the second side, and I also found the rear passenger side header hotter than the front of that same header, I want to add the second sensor to dial in the idle A/F and also see what I need to do to get the header exhaust temps closer to each other on the passenger side.

I just wanted to give an update for those who need a reference.