It needs to be richer at cold idle. Then as the engine warms up, it needs to lean out to your N idle A/F reading. Once you come off of high idle, you should be in the 13's or so during warmup. Once you are at full running temp, then you should tune your in D (with brake applied) A/F number. This number is way more important than your N A/F number. Once you have the In D A/F number dialed in, (13.5-14.5 or so) then your N A/F will be what ever it is. You will need to test with your in D A/F number. Depending on your setup, your car may idle with a higher vacuum reading around 13.5 or it may idle in D with a higher vacuum reading at 14.5. The main goal is in D (with brake applied at full running temp), is the highest vacuum reading.
What I have found is that an auto car needs to be richer than a manual car due to the extra load at in D idle. It will also be different from car to car depending on timing at idle, air temp, sea level, etc.. No one will be able to give you THE correct A/F number for your setup. Let us know what works for you.

Note: Mine idles best in D at about 13.4-13.6. As it approaches 14.0, the idle gets choppy and the vacuum drops.


1970 YO7 A66 [Canadian Export] F8 Challenger
340 (Currently in shop for stroker assy.)