If I read what you wrote correctly you still need to check those floats. I think you tested them with the car off and that isn't the way to go. Get car running and up to temperature. Take out front site plug and set so fuel is just under hole, or takes a slight rocking to spill. Do the same with rear but that one can be a tad higher but only to the point of just about trickling out. Now go on to the 4 corner idle screws with a vacuum gauge hooked up to full vacuum. Start car and block wheels, put car in gear and adjust at rear of carb to achieve the highest steadiest vacuum per corner. After that see if you have to lower idle by adjusting idle screw. Ron
Interesting. Holley's instructional video said that the engine shouldn't be running when using an electric fuel pump. I did recheck the floats per their video after I adjusted the fuel pressure. I don't have a vacuum gauge right now so I can't really do the entire process at the moment.
This makes no sense. Must have been written by their attorneys. You want the car running, after all, that's how it will be idling, not with the pump on and the engine off.
Again, sounds like it was written by attorneys. All I know is that my former co-worker who has been building engines and tuning Holleys for 30+ years taught me to do it with the car running regardless of fuel pump type. He had a Corvette with a 540 hp 383 with a Holley carb that he daily drove for years. It fired on the first crank every time, almost like a fuel-injected car. I used his method and my 66 Barracuda would fire up with literally a tap of the key.
Didn't IMM build your engine? Maybe see if they can help you tune it better?
'67 is an abbreviation of 1967 67' is an abbreviation of 67 feet They are not interchangeable.
