Quote: Well here is where I am at with my own deal. Never got good answers on why these things are pitching rods at high rpm. I would rather deal with the valvetrain maintenance than take a chance on banging lower end parts. Looks like it would be a no brainer to go the new gen route if it were not for these things eating lower end parts with no good answer for why. Seems like some guys might have it figured out but they wont say what the problem is because they want to sell engines. Well I wont buy an engine that I know has issues and you wont tell me what the issue is and how to you fixed it.
Okay, here goes nothing and this is my opinion only and everyone has one lol.
Tuning, headers and DP intake manifold design.
First off header design. As you guys can see from the pic's the a/f bungs are reading primary tubes. I've seen this with both TTI's and ARH's. The bungs should be in the collector's so to read an average a/f of each bank. Most tuners tune with a/f #'s but if your only reading a/f's of off 3-4 cylinders, thats just not right.
The DP intake manifold design needs some popsicle sticks and epoxy with a carb or a good tuner that will tune each and every cylinder with EFI. I've dyno'd the 5.7 and 6.1 factory intakes, XV intake and the DP intake. Using 8 egt probes in the header primarie tubes, what I found is that the factory intake manifolds showed the egt's to be within 5*s at high rpm which is incredable. The DP intake not so much with the #3,4,5 and 6 showing the highest egt's. Now if tuners are tuning a/f's based off the rich cylinders (again, a/f bung location) the center cylinders are way lean and will be in detonation. An interesting fact is when I talked with the guys with blown up motors and asked them where their timing was set at WOT, most stated their tuners set them between 25 and 26*s. At the dyno with 105 tuning the timing and fuel curves, we heard audible knock at 27* and our DP engine made the most power and tq at 19.5*s thanks to the very efficient chamber design. I'm also a true believer in keeping the knock sensors in the tuning picture. Most tuners take those out of the equation, but I'd rather have the computer pull timing and fuel to save our very expensive engine if it goes into detonation.
Most the DP engines are built by a few and then tuned by a few certain individuals. Sometimes that marriage doesn't work. Been there done that. I also bet the majority of DP owner's just want to get in the car and hit the go fast pedal and have no clue about EFI tuning or how to data log a pass.
In conclusion and my personal opinion, the center rods get married to the crank because detonation is taking out the rod bearings. I also believe its not an oiling issue cause you would see more failures with the #7/8 bearings. I've asked a couple with blown engines to measure their after carnage piston taper for me to verify my theory, but no responses as of yet. I also would recommened tuning with egt's vs a/f's. I also think Barton would tune this way. Also need 6Packgut to figure out the popsicle stick and epoxy for a carb application. Happy holiday's.
Man I hope that you are right and thank you for nutting up and sharing this info.
