You have to check the AFT with the van on a level surface, after it has warmed up (its suppose to be up to operating temp), and the trans fluid has to be checked with the trans in neutral. Anything else gives you a false reading.

Its not unusual for the torque converter to drain down after setting for a while (I've seen them start to drain down in a few hours) on a Mopar. Add to that, the pump inside the trans does not pump the fluid while the trans is in park. That means that if the converter has drained down some, and you check it in park, its going to read over full.

I would put more money on a converter drain down and improper fluid level checking then any other cause. Coolant leaking into the trans caused be a radiator cooler issue is pretty rare, but if that is it, the trans is going to fail quickly, and probably already needs to be rebuilt! Water from the cooling system will break down the glue that holds the clutch material to the steel. Been there, done that, but in my case the water didn't come from the trans cooler. The trans was toast in less then 1,000 miles, and the fluid looked like a strawberry milk shake the 1st time.

I've owned a lot of Mopars over the years, for me, and everyone in my household, when ever we start one of our vehicles (we only have Mopars here) that has been sitting more then a couple hours, we put the trans in neutral for at least 30 seconds before we put it in drive or reverse. That gives the pump in the trans time to refill the converter. If you start it up, and immediately put it in drive (or reverse) and go, you may not have enough fluid in the converter for the trans to function instantly and you get a delayed action from the trans. If you have your foot into the gas pedal, it makes it worse. That eventually causes premature wear on the trans clutch pack and bands.

Conclusion: When ever you start your van, put the trans in neutral for the count of 30, before you put it in either drive or reverse. When you check the fluid, you make sure the van is sitting level, start it and do the neutral thing, then shift it into drive, then into reverse at least a couple of times, then shift it into neutral, pull the trans dipstick and wipe it off, then reinsert the dipstick (being sure its all the way down) then check the fluid. The fluid probably isn't up to operating temp, but at least it should read close. Only add fluid if the level is at or below the add line. Over filling is as bad as underfilling. If it reads over full, I suggest you take it for a ride and recheck it. If its way over full, you will need to drain some off. Drain it off by slightly loosening one of the cooler lines. Have a container ready, it will drain off pretty fast. Be sure you don't drain too much off.

On the fluid drip, its not uncommon for the seals around the shift lever to leak a bit. That leak will run down the trans case to the trans pan, and then follow the pan to the lowest point before dripping off. Another common leak is at the bottom of the dipstick tube where it enters the trans. That leak also runs down the trans case and to the trans pan where it will follow to the lowest point before it falls off. Of those two leaks, the dipstick leak is the easiest to fix, the shift seal leak would have to be pretty bad before I'd be jumping to fix it. When the converter drains down, that extra fluid ends up in the trans pan, and brings the fluid level above both of these seals which causes them to leak. Gene