Everyone is taking this far beyond the level of commonsence comprehension.Though there are many ways to set the angles it is generally agreed that if your working with a chassis that already has the drive train fixed and mounted then you can only deal within the limits of the adjustments that are the simplest to achieve.Since the engine and trans are located where the manufacture placed them and the only thing you change is the ride height and type of rear suspension you only need to keep the angles as near parallel as possible,both up and down and side to side and with in the working range of u-joints.The only adjustment you need concern yourself with is how much movement occurs under power and what angle you have to set at static to have the ideal aglinment under power.Since your not changing the fixed componants that leaves the observed static angle and amont of rotation and movement that occurs under power.We used GO-Pro cameras under some of of our cars to view this and found that there are many things that can determine the end setting.Most any or all correction can be made at the driveshaft and pinion u-joint and most all aftermarket suspensions give you that adjustibility.When building a chassis car it is much easier,once you set your engine and trans where you want it just point the pinion at the trans output shaft either upward or downward, then adjust the bars for the recommended final angle.Not everything has to be a constant debate,if you disagree that's fine,remember conversation between people should be an exchange of ideas and knowledge,an argument is an exchange of ignorance.Or the best is ones theory,ie: a theory a fact,opinion,pre-supposition or conjecture that can't be proven or disproven..