Here it is flipped over, showing the side that will be visible when the door is opened, after the skin is installed.

Still needs rectangular bumper hole cut out.

Now finish rust and paint removal, 2-3 coats of epoxy in and out, prep the new skin with epoxy and a little sound deadener
on the inside, then the skin will be ready to install.

I could have bought complete door shells for $1800 instead of two skins for $600 and done all this work
(normally skins are $800 but I found both skins discounted, one locally at Roseville on sale and the other from Jegs
with slight shipping damage/edge dents that came out with a few minutes of hammer and dolly work).

Why not use complete reproduction door shells? For labor savings, complete door shells would be the way to go, but
I fit the quarter panels using these original doors,
would rather not mess up the gaps in a new way and then have to fix that, fix any other issues they may have, and plus these originals were plenty savable. No reason to scrap them for a couple rust spots, they don't grow on trees...its not 1982 anymore.

door13.jpg

Rich H.

Esse Quam Videri