Nah its all good! Somecarguy I believe I had posted/clarified my assertion that "rotor phasing would not change from mech adv" and that only vac adv would alter it & no I was not referring to the rotor not moving or timing change or anything else off on a tangent that you were saying, just strickly that when you hit the rotor with the light (which is how RP is checked) that it will not move & we are on for ten cuz you directed me where to send my tuition if I lost. Send me ten to my PP and we're good and order will be restored to the universe. Are you a man of your word, that is the question now? Moparx, we absolutely good brother & yeah just grab one of your dists & dont even need the cap so a regular dist will work fine & do the 12 0'clock deal I posted way back & you'll see it. the bennie that might come out of this is that some dists have way off RP & if it is on the edge & causes a miss under load at speed it might be a MF to track down. You can pump up the can on your bench with a Mityvac & check it. retract rotor all the way (the springs should already be doing this). make a mark on the dist top rim perimeter to note current rotor location. put cap on & make another mark just below where cap meets housing at the center of the particular cap bulge where the rotor is. remove cap & compare the distance between the two now then pump up the can and make another mark where the rotor ends up. ideally you want the cap terminal to be centered inbetween the "swing" of the arc and if it is a bit off I like it to be closer at zero vac cuz that is where it will be at WOT when the required voltage is the greatest and the available voltage is the lowest (less coil saturation time cuz of high RPM) and the can will shift RP CCW on a SB and CW on a BB. several ways to correct including Ebergs redrilled reluctor or redrill you own, high quality drill bit in a bit from the ID then open it up out to the ID with a high quality mini file or widen the rotor slot in the upper shaft then close the other side with some JBweld (I ain't done it yet but I'm gonna sometime). in addition to circumferential distance there is radial distance (& they both add up). NAPA sells the MO3000 rotor with a .060" longer blade but you can make your own by drilling out the rivet in the stock rotor & making a new blade. Ideally your want .015" rotor tip to cap terminal clearance or pretty close to that. any distance that the spark has to jump is wasted energy & ups the required voltage & stresses the coil. If you ain't using vac adv you can pump up the can till the RP is dead on then drill a hole inbetween the two plates and lock them (the plates) in that position with a mini bolt/nut with a spacer inbetween the plates so that they do not tilt when you snug the bolt & use a drop of loctite. Somecarguy lets settle up on the ten.