Quote: Isn't decking your block that much to get your pistons up to zero deck going to open up another can of worms? Or are you talking about new pistons?
Hey Satty, Dwaynes idea was to get to zero deck to close up the quench, but at the same time have the valve sides of the pistons milled about .040. This milling would cover about 2/3 of the piston, so calculating compression off of that wouldn't be too hard. The effect that Dwayne was speaking of was a huge gain in quench with a similar volume in the combustion chamber. This would likely result in a similar CR and cranking compression numbers. The expected gain was in quench while still maintaining the power of higher compression.
***Today I mapped the spark curve as it sits in the car. As expected, the 14 degrees of mechanical advance really is all in by 1900-2000 rpms. This distributor had 2 pink advance springs and the tabs were bent out to tighten up the spring tension. I had full advance long before the converter stall speed. I took my spare distributor and installed 2 orange springs. The curve appears similar but comes on a bit later. The total advance isn't reached until about 2500. I ran the car to test the curve but I didn't drive it. I need to use up the high octane 110 Sunoco that is still in the tank. I took the first distributor from the car that had the 2 pink springs and changed to 2 brown springs. Some experts suggest using a purple spring and one of another color to have a 2 stage advance. Until I can make sure that it will not detonate at 31 degrees, 32 degrees or so, the 2 stage curve is pointless. My 14 degree advance is short enough to just have a single stage curve.
