Quote: I hadn't considered the rotation of the wheel, but I'll be doing a bigblock and it's the same rotation as the 5.0. Lucky for me.
Overall, I think the EEC-IV's reaction to what we're doing will follow this process -- -- all in milliseconds, too. Followed by some Dear-diary typing into some long-term adaptive tables.
I agree that shaving 1 tooth on the Mopar wheel will be an easy route, I mentioned earlier that it the TFI triggers on a falling edge, so make sure to pivot on that feature when orienting your wheel.
Big block? Cheater It will match up as long as you orient the teeth down. I'm tentatively hoping to orient the teeth up, so I can use the dodge hall sensor, which doesn't require pulling the wheel off to replace the hall sensor.
From the autocad drawing you sent me, it looks like the teeth on the dodge wheel are on average 2-4* narrower than the Ford wheel. Like I mentioned above, if going backwards is close enough to work, I'd bet being 4* narrower than stock won't hurt anything. The other option I came up with was some way to make the necessary teeth that much wider
I heard back from the online machinist about making a wheel of the right diameter, so I can add the teeth in myself. Including the material, is $85 for one, $160 for three, or $215 for five. It would be similar to the pictures of Andrewh's trigger wheel.
Now I need to find a dodge 8 tooth wheel or two to experiment with
If you ever find yourself in a fair fight, your tactics suck.
-- all in milliseconds, too. 
Followed by some Dear-diary typing into some long-term adaptive tables.
It will match up as long as you orient the teeth down. I'm tentatively hoping to orient the teeth up, so I can use the dodge hall sensor, which doesn't require pulling the wheel off to replace the hall sensor.
