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The plastic bushing that holds the Mag TBI wheel to the shaft can have its 4 plastic plugs drilled out removing the metal wheel from it. The bushing can then go upside down on the shaft, and the Ford key (with a larger hole) can fit on top and bolt to it. Things I still need figure out include the final installed height of the plastic bushing, and if I can use the roll pin hole where it is, or if it needs to go up or down.


If someone wanted to use a Ford wheel I think you could cut the teeth off the Mopar wheel and bolt the Ford wheel to the disc that remains -- and that might be a little more robust. Installation height and #1 orientation would have to be evaluated though. I don’t remember if the tooth height differs, but if the Ford teeth are too tall and rub the sensor plate they can be ground shorter as long as the sensor still sees a clean window/shutter effect. (I mocked up mounting the Ford wheel to a shaft collar that would clamp onto the shaft, thereby allowing any orientation/height that was required.)

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Fury Fan, do the 8 tooth wheels you have, have the same angle between all the teeth (except for #1 on the Ford of course)? It would be awesome if we could use otherwise 'off the shelf' parts, rather than needing to hack on another sensor if we need to install a new one. Make an adapter to go from the remote mount Ford TFI to the Dodge hall sensor. Everything just 'plugs in'


From an oddfire/evenfire perspective the teeth are spaced equally on both wheels with the exception of the oddball tooth/gap. However, the Mopar wheel has teeth that overall are a bit narrower than the Ford, and this will affect the system to an as-yet unknown degree (pun intended), because the coil is fired on the falling edge of the wheel, which will affect timing.

However, we’re gonna have 5.0 timing tables applied to either an A, B or RB engine, so there’s no reason to get concerned (yet) since we’re so far in left field (and at nighttime, too). Read the below snippet I got from another site:
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The signal output from the Hall sensor is called a Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) signal. There is one shutter that is skinny and this is how the EEC knows the #1 piston TDC position. This is also how the EEC knows where each cylinder is in the firing order due to monitoring the time rate between PIP signals (changing rpms) and the internal firing order data, which enables it to control sequentially the firing of the injectors.
The EEC then sends a signal (SPOUT) back to the TFI module requesting to fire the coil. The EEC senses the coil ground for feedback that the coil has then actually fired.
The coil fires on the falling edge of the SPOUT signal. The TFI also provides an internal SPOUT signal (based on the PIP signal) for limp home mode operation if the EEC has stopped sending the SPOUT. If the SPOUT plug is not inserted, spark timing remains at base timing during engine operation.



So here’s some theoretical diahrea:
The narrower Mopar teeth will cause the spark to occur X degrees advanced due to the advanced falling edge (which would typically be compensated for with distributor orientation). But this could also theoretically affect fueling, as the EEC could think the wheel was moving faster than actual (it sees falling edges happening quicker than expected) and therefore think engine RPM was higher, and begin firing the injectors differently based on fueling and timing tables. (The angular velocity is the same between the wheels at a fixed RPM but the tooth-tip speed is different, and EEC has some awareness/expectations of that toothtip speed). But EEC would then have the feedback from coil firing and have info on the true RPM. But it could conceivably think the spark was ill-timed vs the teeth. What will it do if coil firing suggests 3000rpm but toothtip suggests 3200 (arbitrary numbers)? If fueling is OK and near stoich (which means no misfires) but toothtip speed vs coil suggests consistently incorrect timing, what would it do??? Did the Ford engineers anticipate this scenario and write a specific diagnostic/limp response for it???

As there is so much unknown regarding how well a ‘foreign’ engine will run with EEC’s tables and maps, I suggest we start out simple and not worry about problems until there are problems.
  • Get a Mopar TBI dizzy, file a tooth narrower to reasonably emulate the Ford wheel, then either re-pin the wheel to point to Mopar #1 or re-lace the plug wires as needed (remember Ford’s #1 is different than Mopar #1, and re-lacing the dizzy wires might be easier).
  • Install the rest of the system hardware – remote TFI, harness, fuel system, sensors, etc.
  • see if it will start and idle.

If not, then diagnosis is in order, and using a Ford wheel in the dizzy might be required.

Whatever you guys do for modifying a dizzy and wheel, just remember to maintain the relationship between #1 piston at TDC, #1 wire going to #1 sparkplug, rotor pointing at #1 on dizzy cap, and Hall sensor aligns with falling edge on narrow tooth of the trigger wheel.

Here’s a good read:
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/EECIVInnerWorkings/