Well, I was hoping to be able to hand you guys the secret all at once on a silver platter, but I hit a hurdle on my end, so I’ll start spilling some beans.

The Magnum distributor functions as a cam sensor, hence the 180° wheel shown in the other thread, the Magnums use a Crank Position Sensor on the flexplate instead. Why they used 2 sensors is beyond me, they could have used a trigger wheel in the dizzy or a missing tooth on the flexplate and eliminated 1 sensor, which would surely have been a huge cost savings!

Anyway, the distributor I have been looking at is from an 89-91 318 (or 90-92 360) TBI setup. Similar-looking sensor except the mounting tabs are different (they match the side screws of a points or electronic dizzy perfectly). And - this dizzy also uses an 8-tooth trigger wheel! The tooth spacing differs from the Ford wheel as I mentioned earlier, although I believe the ‘#1’ tooth can be filed narrower to emulate the Ford wheel. That’s job #2.

The Ford wheel is approx 2.35” OD, the Dodge wheel is approx 2.1” OD. The Dodge wheel diameter is not compatible with the Ford sensor, at least they don’t seem to want to package together in the Mopar dizzy because the Ford dizzy is larger OD and the guts are bigger. Anyone that has a Ford and a Mopar dizzy, please see if you come up with any ideas on how to merge them.

My plan was to install the TBI Hall and wheel in a B-RB dizzy, but this all hinges on whether the Dodge and Ford Halls are similar electrically (job #1). The hurdle I’ve hit is that the Ford takes a 12V input, the Dodge Magnum info I have shows it takes a 5V input and the wire colors differ from the TBI Hall I have. I want to be able to figure out how to test it, then put 12v into it and see if it blows the sensor. Hall sensors usually have a wide input voltage range, and it’s conceivable that Dodge used 5V as it was a standard sensor voltage and Ford used battery voltage instead. The sensor might not care what we feed it.

Anyone have a Dodge TBI schematic for the Hall sensor??? I need to know the wire colors so that I can hook it up to my test meter. If this sensor can handle 12 volts, it might be the solution. There would still be some mods required, but we’ll cover that in the future if this sensor will work (job #1).