Quote: Some are missing the point. We are NOT bashing 440 Source, only pointing out what was found and what it will take to fix it. You buy a low cost kit, you expect it not to be perfect. The question is, does the low cost kit, save you enough, to pay to repair the issues and still save money over the better kit. As far as whether these issues have been corrected in newer kits, is an impossible question to answer. You would just have to check it and see. My opinion, not likely. Lets face facts guys, these are cheap kits, yes prices were raised recently, but do you think that was done because they are spending more time with machining to make tolerances better, or because the raw forging price went up. I am betting on the steel went up myself. Regardless, the fact remains, given the history, you MUST check these parts. You may get one that needs little work, you may get one that needs a lot. But as stated, they are NOT "ready to run kits". Personally, I "check" every part I get, be it a cheaper part, or a billet crank from Bryant. The difference is, the better parts are always "right". I like to save money as much as anybody, but if a couple hundred extra upfront, saves me time and money in the long run, that is a no brainer........Another option, is to buy the low cost kit from BG, Muscle Motors, or some such other place. Yes, it will cost you more than direct from Source, but the issues will be corrected. But again, you will have to weigh this cost vs the better kit up front. Lets just see what the final costs are going to be when BG gets done. I feel sure he will give a fair account of the results.
Monte
Monte I respect you and most of your posts but when you say the better parts are always right you are wrong. My 2200.00 dollar 4.500 stroke callias crank was already cut .010 right out of the box. If it wasn't such a bother I would have reboxed it and told them to shove it up their azz.
I am not here to argue, all I can say, is I have NEVER gotten a "good" crank, be it a Callies, Bryant, Windberg, or even the K-1 Callies, that needed work and I have built a couple motors over the years. Am I saying every crank they ever made was perfect, of course not, am I saying 95% are good, yeah, I would take that bet. Will you say the same for the "cheap" cranks, not likely. As far as yours being cut .010, sure won't argue, you got it, but I have a hard time believing they just sent you a .010 under crank without your knowledge and then you just kept it Ok. But we are getting totally off topic and I don't want to wreck BGs thread. All I am saying, is the cheap kit does not seem to be the big bargain, once everything is looked at. The prices are posted on the thread. If the K-1 kit with Compstar rods is a few hundred more, I will go that way every time, because from MY experience, I would much rather have a crank and rods, final machined here in the states by Callies, because I know that it is likely going to be dead on the money.
Ok. But we are getting totally off topic and I don't want to wreck BGs thread. All I am saying, is the cheap kit does not seem to be the big bargain, once everything is looked at. The prices are posted on the thread. If the K-1 kit with Compstar rods is a few hundred more, I will go that way every time, because from MY experience, I would much rather have a crank and rods, final machined here in the states by Callies, because I know that it is likely going to be dead on the money.
