Ok I'm feeling very optimistic right now, I'm just waiting for it to get dark to see if removing the high speed air bleeds fixes this issue. I don't have any high speed air bleeds to test with, so removing them is all I can do at the moment. But I installed the .030 idle feed restrictors along with the .075 idle air bleeds. I fired it up and it would idle on it's own now. The .020 idle feed restrictors were obviously way too small because it would not run on it's own.
With the .030 ifr's and .075 iab's I set the mixture screws to the best vaccum reading with the transmission in drive and the tires blocked. After that I hit the throttle a few times and I found that it cut out and felt and sounded a little lean right around 1500 to 2000 rpm. So I took the .075 iab's out and I put some .070 iab's inn and re-set the idle mixture screws to the best vaccum reading in drive with tires blocked, this came out to be exactly 1 turn out on each mixture screw. I hit the throttle a few times and it didn't sound lean and didn't cut out. So I think the ifr's and iab's are real close. Then I gave it some throttle while watching the boosters with my air cleaner off and I noticed that the boosters start to drip fuel pretty fast, I'd say around 2000 to 2200 rpm. And that's when it starts loading up and popping and when that is happening I can feel the heat coming from the hedders. So I hope I am correct in thinking that the high speed bleeds were too small allowing the mains to come on way too soon. It should be dark in about an hour and I will go out and see what it does with the high speed bleeds removed.