Quote: To all that are following this thread, as the OP I would like to invite any other electrical knowledge anyone is willing to post here, in the hopes this thread will become a great resource(it already has WAY surpassed my expectations!!!) for all of us, especially now in the age where we are getting into more and more sensitive electrical issues and systems. One thing that comes to mind would be charts like used to figure wire gauge for load and length, etc. Math used in electrical work is another. At this time I would also like to thank all that posted here with info. I appreciate it, and have learned a lot so far. Thanks, Greg
Radiator electrolysis can be a real killer of aluminum radiators. To test, VOM on 2 vlt scale. Negative probe to a known good grd. Positive probe in the coolant ( make sure it does not touch rad neck, etc). Take a reading. Take another reading while starter is engaged. Start the car and turn all electrical circuits on. A reading of .2 volts or above = bad ground. A change in voltage as you turn circuits on and off is a good way to isolate the problem. This is referred to as type "A" electrolysis. If the voltage does not vary as you turn stuff on and off, but remains above .2 vlts, that is referred to as type "B" electrolysis. This indicates acidic fluid. Dump the coolant, flush the system, and replace the coolant. OR, a quick check = stick your finger in the coolant. If it comes out black, you have an electrolysis problem. Obviously bad news for heads, block, or anything else aluminum. A "known good ground" would be the - battery post.
