I burnt up the same fast box 3 times trying to figure out my issues. I could not figure out why it was frying the main board. I have one wire hooked to the FAST harness, the pink key switched wire. Changed this several times through my endeavor.
The main red and black wires went to the battery. Every time it burnt up the ecu the crank trigger stopped reading. The crank trigger is a 2 wire system shielded and grounded on the sensor end. I used weather packs as the plug. I later cut the weather pack off and went with spade connectors to eliminate the weather pack. Then had a friend cut those connectors off and redo the connection just to eliminate myself from the problem lol. As I type this I remember moving the crank trigger away from the altinator, then removing the altinator, after I relocated the crank trigger to the oil pump side of the motor. Also changed where the shielding wire bolted to the motor and the routing of the crank trigger wires. Pulled the working crank trigger off the Valiant and swapped them out to eliminate that.


So I started looking other places. I PM'd Monty here about a Holley system but later decided that since I have FAST sensors all ready, to get a top of the line black ECU and new harness straight from the FAST tech guy. This eliminated the 1st ECU and harness and now I have a spare. It ran good till I started running the car hard again, then it would just turn off. It didn't burn up this time but the logger looks like you unhook the battery wile making a pass. Later learned my red box was an early one and the later ecu has more filtering like Monty talks about Holley doing.


So I looked else where. Changed cap, wires, rotor, the plugs were new a few times so I have changed brands now lol. Added another Battery to fight voltage drop. Started adding grounds to everything even the stupid stuff like relays and heads and chassi etc.. it still ain't fix


So I keep reading on the Web. Post my soap opera on a few turbo sites on the Web and get a few people that want to help. Monty being one
the suggestions are stuff I have not try'd so I keep at it.


I can turn it down to 15 psi of boost and run a hi 4 in the 1\8 but that's not what I built it for. This thing will go mid 4's once I can keep it running from A to B. It's went 130mph in the 1/8 and I was peddling it like John Force looking for Elvis. It never got above 6 grand.

I know this is a little past what Gregsdart started this post for but I'm really glad he did. If it saves one guy an issue then good. But this is almost the exact thing I needed to get a handle on my car. Just the information about the plug wires for me was invaluable. To me a Taylor wire has been top of the line for years. I'll be ordering fire core wires this week lol

I will be rewiring my car front to back in the next couple weeks and will prolly wire it like a boat. Every ground going to the battery. I do have a few questions, I have two yellow tops. Should I run the grounds from things like water pump, intercooler pump, turbo oil pump, and electric fan to one battery and the electronics to the other? What about the starter and lights? Do you still ground both battery's to the chassi but still run dedicated grounds?
Monty, next time you get to Bowling Green gimme me a yell. I'm an hour north. I owe you lunch




My year was a learning year. This is my 1st turbo race car. Many guys on this site know I have been building this thing since 2007. Monty and myself bumped heads when I started, but it was because of miscommunication. .after I met him at the track, seen him and the Buick at the track etc I seen he was a welth of knowledge and would honstly try to help