Quote: Directly to the frame is ALWAYS your best bet - for grounding everything. Least # of attaching points for the starter / alternator. Next best is something that is welded to the frame. Worst is something that is bolted to the frame. Doing voltage drop tests are always in order when doing / checking grounds.
Not close to correct...........in fact that is the WORST way to wire a ground system. Just because people do it all the time and it is passable, does not make it right. Work with a lot of EFI cars as I do and you will quickly find the flaws in this type system. Your frame or sheetmetal is a TERRIBLE conductor.
What I do on all the EFI and actually everything I wire now, is a "floating" ground system. I attach a copper bus bar on rubber isolators under the dash. I run the cable from battery to bus bar and run all high draw grounds to this bar, such as ignition, pumps, fans, etc. I also tie both heads together and run a ground wire to bus bar as well. The ONLY thing I ground to the actual chassis or sheetmetal is the lights
Monte
So Monte, are you saying that the only stuff that is critical to have the floating ground is the electronic stuff and not necessarily the rest of the analog stuff like starter, lights, fan, water pump, etc...? That's a whole lot easier to swallow than a complete rewire of a car to add EFI. Them wires under the dash are hard to get to on my junk, and the dash isn't coming out without cutting bars.
