Quote: I'm sure I could do better with another cam like you said, but I will need a converter for another cam too.
I was hoping not to crack the motor open at all. It's easier for me to change out the torque conveter, it only takes me an hour or 90 minutes.
Sounds like I need to change out the converter first, if that doesn't light a fire under the car then I will consider a new cam. I'm convinced this car is build to run a lot quicker/faster than it is. My small block Demon will blow it's doors off right now.
Oops, sorry for getting off the original topic.
Yes, a high stall converter will help, and likely be needed with other simular sized cams. I have been really happy with my old Dynamic 10" race converter. The newer 9.5" converter is supposed to be even better.
As mentioned earlier, recurving the distrubitor for greater initial advance should also help.
If you have a reasonably priced chassis dyno in your area, it may be worth it to just make a baseline run with 02 sensors so you can see if the air/fuel curve is close or way off. I have seen some really nice looking big buck cars run on the chassis dyno that were so out of tune it makes you cringe.
To me, it makes no sense to throw expensive parts at a car if your not going to tune them to work right. The chassis dynos around here charge between $50 and $100 to make several baseline runs, and usually about the same amount per hour for tuning time.
The alternative is test-n-tune at the drag strip. Tuning at the strip works, but there are so many cars at the strip here, you don't get alot of runs.
