I installed the leaf springs and rear axle assembly at the beginning of November. Storing it in the basement wasn't one of my best ideas. With a 2-wheeled dolly and my wife's help, we managed to get it up the stairs. I was actually able to get a 15" wheel to clear the 11.7" Dr Diff brakes with about 1/2" worth of washers on the outside of the rotors. That will work nicely to be able to push the car around the garage. Otherwise it would be stuck on jack stands. Still need to figure something out for front rollers.




Then a few weeks ago I had some buddies over and we got the engine/trans installed. Before the engine went it though we swapped out the 3500 stall converter for something a little more street friendly and primed the engine.




Once the engine was in I measured my pinion angle. It looked like the pinion was WAY too high. I was afraid the spring pads had been welded on wrong. We jacked up the back of the car(under the rear end) until an angle gauge on the trans output shaft read 0*. Then I put the angle gauge on the rear end yoke. Surprisingly it also read 0*. A small 2* shim is all I'll need to get the pinion angle to -2*. Once that was done I measured for my driveshaft length. I previously cleaned up a C-body shaft that I was going to have cut down to size. After calling a local driveline company for a quote, and realizing how much that has gone up in price, I started looking at other options. I ended up finding a place that made me a brand new shaft(balanced with new joints) for only $60 more than cutting an old shaft down.




I'm not sure why I keep having issues with E-brake cables but I do. IIRC to get my Challenger E-brake hooked up it took a combination of stock, Finelines and Inline Tube parts. The Dart rear cables are from Dr Diff. Looking back at pictures before disassembly, the rear cables seem to be in the correct spot. The front cable however is way too long. I fabbed up a spacer in order to get it working. I'm not really interested in buying a new cable unless it's the only option.